A Way of Life in the USA

Hunting is a way of life in the United States, and we are here to help you be as successful on the hunt as possible.

Mule Deer Hunting States

The Top States for Deer Hunting

  • April 9, 2016 /

For an avid deer hunter, traveling comes with the sport. The National Deer Alliance conducted a survey in 2015, and according to the survey, 42 percent of deer hunters leave their state to go deer hunting. This has been happening regularly since 2012 too. The following will be a set of lists for a few types of deer, and the best states for to hunt them in. The lists will be length appropriate based on how widespread the type of deer is, and each state listed for each kind of deer will list some of the qualities for why it made the list.

The Mule Deer

Mule Deer Hunting StatesThe mule deer makes its home west of the Missouri River, specifically west of the Rocky Mountains. There has been speculation in recent years concerning the availability of good, trophy-quality mule deer available. Wolf territory expansion and harsh winters have caused some problems for the mule deer, but several states are confronting the troublesome trend for hunters with some solid management practices to keep the numbers up. Conservation and wildlife agencies have changed some practices to help confront the declining population, so here is a list of good states to hunt mule deer in.

Arizona

This is a tricky state to describe, and a lot of hunters would debate this as a pick. There is a strip of Arizona in Unit 13. Several sub-zones in in Unit 13 are well known to have quality mule deer, but they are not sought out as much lately due to a low tag percentage. The reason it made this list goes back to growing numbers. This is a great area to hunt mule deer again because management has stepped up, there is better access to hunting areas, habitat work and quotas have all come together to turn out big bucks, and there are a lot more of them now too.

Desert shrub, grasslands, pinon-juniper, pine, aspen-fir, and mountain meadows, but the deer are known to prefer rugged country. There is a also a mix of private and public hunting with many places offering the services of guides.

Colorado

Colorado might be the most ideal state to score a trophy mule deer. It has the best and most efficient management of the population. Certain sections in Colorado seem to yield better point bucks. Eagle, Garfield and Mesa counties are the best places to go. If you prefer to hunt in plains terrain, then focus on the Colorado Eastern Plains, and bow-hunters are especially fond of hunting mule deer in the plains.

The terrain in Eagle, Garfield and Mesa counties are rugged, and mule deer prefer rugged terrain the most, so there is a good sign. There is a mix of private and public hunting opportunities, and the Colorado Eastern Plains is known for some amazing public land hunting. It is a wonderful state for trophy mule deer, and it has a lot of options.

Utah

Utah is another fantastic state to hunt mule deer. Northern Utah has been especially fruitful in recent years. Other than the good management and less predators, there really is not much of a reason to explain why it is a great state for trophy mule deer. There has been a steady climb record tags being entered into the books for the last 10 years or so.

The entire state of Utah has a variety of terrain, but the northern part of the state, where the most big mule deer buck are, is mainly dessert and rugged. Private land access is the key to success in hunting in Northern Utah, but if you choose to go public, then hiring a guide to track the larger mule deer is a good investment. It will certainly save time and get a better yield.

Nevada

There are a lot of fun things to do in Nevada, and hunting trophy mule deer is one of them. The reason Nevada is a great state is because it issues a low number of tags. There is not a lot of pressure to hunt large mule deer in Nevada as opposed to other states, so it improves the chances of actually getting a large one, and the chances are quite good.

Nevada has a variety of terrain from rugged to alpine conifers. The Nevada Department of Wildlife furnishes statistics on regions every year for trophy mule deer. It really depends on what you want to hunt them with, which will determine the ideal terrain because the state is considered a good hunt overall. Public land access tends to be a better bet in Nevada. More mule deer and less competition make Nevada a top state.

Wyoming and Idaho

Wyoming and Idaho run neck and neck, and they offer a good opportunity for the same reasons. There are a lot of trophy bucks in these two states, but they are in difficult areas to hunt. If you can hunt well in extremely high, rugged terrain then you will score a trophy mule deer. This is public land opportunity, and it needs to be emphasized again about the land. It is difficult to hunt, but hunters skilled in high, rugged terrain will go home happy.

Is a Lot of Small Mule Deer Acceptable?

If you just want to hunt and do not care about a trophy buck, then consider privately owned lands in the following states: Montana, New Mexico, North Dakota, South Dakota, Texas, California and Nebraska. They have high population, however, they are declining. Since they are declining, then the chances of a record-setting mule deer are pretty slim. Hunting public lands is would only be worth it if a guide was hired.

The Axis Deer, Also Known as the Spotted Deer or Chital Deer

Axis DeerThe axis deer was a gift to a Hawaiian king in the 1860s, so it came to the United States before it was even a state. The deer is native to India, and from a culinary standpoint, it is arguably in the top five game meats. It is a beautiful animal, and it is also has a population problem. Unlike the mule deer, the axis deer is considered an invasive species, especially in Hawaii. Hawaii was forced to make legislation because of this animal, so even though the list will be short, here is a list of states perfect for hunting the axis deer.

Hawaii

After World War Two, the axis deer was brought to the Maui island for the vets to hunt, but besides human hunters, there are no predators in Hawaii so the population is growing over 20 percent a year, which is alarming. It has also spread to other islands, which is why the law now prohibits inter-island release or transportation and the possession of a wild or feral deer. It is also considered a serious crime.

Hawaii is a great state to hunt deer in. A lot of people probably had no idea. The citizens would greatly appreciate traveling hunters to come and deal with the axis deer population, and what deer hunter could pass up engaging in their favorite sport in a place like Hawaii? The advantages are obvious. It is needed, appreciated and beautiful in Hawaii.

Texas

The axis deer was brought to Texas in 1932. There were wild, self-sustaining herds by 1988, and they are scattered across central and southern Texas throughout approximately 27 counties today. The highest concentration of axis deer can be found on the Edwards Plateau.

There are public hunting opportunities, but the the axis deer have been located to a lot of private ranches for hunting opportunities. The terrain on Edwards Plateau is thick flat rock, and the axis deer prefer it and other locations because the terrain is similar to India where they actually originate from. One other caveat to hunting axis deer in Texas is there are no seasonal restriction. It is perfectly legal to hunt big axis deer all year long.

The Whitetail Deer

Whitetail DeerThe whitetail deer is mid-sized deer found everywhere east of the Rocky Mountains all over the United States and Canada. The major surge in traveling, which was talked about in the beginning of the article has a lot do with the whitetail hunting becoming extremely popular. The popularity can be attributed to outdoor television shows and the Internet. No one had any idea the kind of opportunities other states presented in whitetail hunting until the Internet. Private land acquisition by serious hunters and outfitter numbers have exploded. In this list, it is assumed there are going to be plenty of private land hunting, so the states focused on will be for the benefit of solo and public land hunters mostly. There is one state, which will be discussed for the balance and overall great hunting experience. Enjoy this list of great states to hunt whitetail deer in from around the United States.

Texas

From a a public hunting standpoint for whitetail deer, there is not as much as there should be because of pressure put on by wealthy ranchers, but there are a lot of deer in Texas, and there is a good ratio of trophy whitetail buck in relation to the population. There are a variety of terrains in available in the vast state of Texas, especially timber areas. A lot of whitetail kills occur in timber areas in Texas. The hunting weather is great, and Texas has a long rut. Also, there is the chance to kill other types of deer. There are all kinds of different species of deer everywhere in Texas. Hunting whitetail in Texas is a fun experience for public or solo hunter though.

Montana

Montana is where a lot of whitetail hunter like to to travel to. It dropped off for awhile due to a serious decline in the deer population because of an illness, but it is still known for hunting whitetail. There is hardly any pressure when it comes to public hunting of whitetail deer in Montana, especially with the rising number of whitetails. This is the main reason Montana is on the list.

A lot of areas are already famous in Montana for hunting whitetail. The Milk River bottoms was huge before the decline, and it is growing back into its fame again. The southeastern part of Montana and the forks area have great populations. Whitetails do love private land though, especially the irrigated croplands, but a lot of farmers are reasonable when it comes to hunting so in a lot of ways, private and public do not have to differ to much in method and outcome.

Mississippi

Easily on of the best southern states to publicly hunt whitetail deer in. There is a big whitetail population in Mississippi, and the state regulations are easy on bag-limits too. The best thing about public hunting in Mississippi is the amount of public land. You will not be hard pressed to find somewhere legal to hunt. The downside are the record-setters. Mississippi does not have a lot of trophy winners for size, but it does have an impressive statistic, which makes it a top state for whitetail hunting. The success rate for the average hunter is two deer for every one hunter for every season. It is a stat a lot of states can’t match or beat.

Minnesota

Minnesota has a lot of lakes, snowfall and whitetail deer. Along with the large population of whitetail deer are a lot of trophy size bucks. This is impressive considering Minnesota has an abundance of hunters. The majority of the northern part of the state is cold, wooded terrain. It is also public hunting land. A lot of deer, public land and record whitetail bucks puts Minnesota on the list as one of the best Midwest and northern states to hunt whitetail in. If you can deal with the cold weather, then you have to hunt in Minnesota.

Oklahoma

Oklahoma has a rep for having some of the largest whitetail bucks, which is precisely why it is a top travel destination for whitetail hunters already. Hunters are known to spend a lot of money to travel and buy a nonresidential tag to come to Oklahoma, and they are doing it purely for the record book. Hunting pressure is fairly low despite the high amount of nonresidential hunters.

There is a large amount of public land, and it is spread out throughout the state. The outskirts of the reservoirs are great places to hunt whitetails in Oklahoma. There are large numbers of whitetail deer on the fringe of these areas, and it is nearly entirely open for public hunting.

Missouri

Missouri has had a steady, excellent turnout of trophy whitetail bucks for a long time now, and it is likely the result of a lot of well managed public land. The state has an interesting agreement with some of its farmers too. Farmers leave some of their corn and soybean crops to grow onto public hunting area, and they leave a portion of their harvest through hunting season as bait. It is a great concept.

There is a medium amount of pressure for from other public hunters because it is so popular in Missouri. The state gets a lot of residential and nonresidential hunters during season, and the tags are affordable too. The biggest and most mature bucks are found in the north of Missouri, especially in the counties by Iowa. Those areas are by the Missouri River, and the whitetails love the terrain by the river.

Kansas

These lists were in no particular order, but Kansas is a sure bet for the top state to hunt whitetail deer on public land. It is constantly ranking high in categories for harvest versus number of hunters, harvest versus number of deer and harvest of trophy bucks versus total harvest. It is a pilgrimage whitetail hunting enthusiasts must make. The state is a magnet for large whitetails bucks too.

Hunter success ratios are high versus the low hunting pressure. The highest amount of pressure is actually by larger cities, and it is because there is more public land by them, and almost everyone in Kansas loves to hunt whitetail for sport, food or both. It has a program where landowners allow hunters access to private land called the Walk-in Hunting Access, so even though the whitetail section was devoted to public hunting, it needs to be pointed out Kansas can provide the best in both worlds.

The majority of large bucks come from the eastern part of Kansas. The prairies in Kansas may produce a low number of large bucks, but they are there hiding. They prefer ditches and irrigated crops in the rolling prairies. Hunting in Kansas will cost $395 for a nonresidential tag, but success is almost always going to happen yearly. If you love the sport of hunting whitetail deer, then go to Kansas as soon as you can.

Whitetail Buck with Spots

The Ultimate Deer Hunting Equipment Checklist

  • April 7, 2016 /

Whitetail Buck with SpotsIf you’re like most people, with a regular job, you may only get a few days to hunt deer every year. Because your time in the field is probably limited, forgetting one simple item can literally ruin your hunt. It is awfully difficult to hunt without a weapon! And even if you just forget something simple like a pair of gloves, or don’t pack quite enough food, the amount of enjoyment you get out of hunting will drop significantly. This is where a good deer hunting equipment checklist is invaluable.

While you will need slightly different gear depending on whether you are hunting early or late in the season, using a bow or firearm, staying close to home or traveling across the country or are packing in or hunting close to the road, a good checklist will help you be sure you don’t forget anything you might need. It is suggested you go through all your gear at least a few weeks in advance of the season, so you will have plenty of time to secure replacements, if needed.

You can use the table of contents to jump to the section you’re most concerned about. Make sure to triple check the last item on the list, it is easy to forget but the consequences of doing so can literally be life changing!

Hunting Weapon(s)

Obviously, your choice of hunting weapon is not likely to be forgotten, but should be thoroughly checked over before the hunt.

Archery

Bow: Check your bow for any signs of wear or damage. Inspect the limbs, the cams and especially the string and replace anything that looks suspect.

Arrows: Aside from the arrows, or bolts, in your quiver, it is wise to have a few extras on hand.

Broadheads: Check fixed-blade broadheads for damage and be sure there is a sharp edge on each one. Inspect mechanical broadheads for any possible factory defects.

Broadhead Sharpener: It only takes one missed shot to dull a broadhead.

Small Game Head: This blunt rubber tip slips over the end of the arrow shaft and is perfect when that grouse perches up in a tree.

Archery Release: Unless you have time to practice every day, an archery release will improve your accuracy 10 fold. The release is designed to hold the bowstring at full draw and fire the bow with the push of a button.

Cocking Rope: If you hunt with a crossbow, a cocking rope is a must as cocking the bow by hand is not only hard on your arms and back, it can damage the bow.

Firearms

Loading a hunting rifleWeapon: Check your rifle, shotgun or handgun thoroughly and inspect the scope, if so equipped, to be sure a lens hasn’t mysteriously become cracked or a turret cap has gone missing. It’s always worth firing your weapon a few days before the hunt to make sure it has maintained its zero.

Sling: While your rifle or shotgun should be in your hands when stillhunting or tracking, a sling can help shorten the walk to and from the stand, or when dragging out.

Holster: If you use a handgun, be sure the holster is in good shape.

Scope Covers: It has been known to occasionally rain or snow in the deer woods.

Field Cleaning Kit: You never know when something will get stuck in your barrel, and a cleaning rod will work a lot better than a stick.

Hunting Clothing

Clothing needs can vary depending on latitude, altitude and weather. Layering several light pieces of clothing under your jacket will always keep you warmer, and drier, than a couple of heavy garments.

Insulated Parka: It gets cold in the woods, especially when sitting on stand all day.

Jacket: For early in the season when the temps are warmer, or when you plan to be on the move all day.

Windbreaker: Sometimes on even the nicest early-season day the wind can whip up out of nowhere.

Pants: Many hunters never consider a pair of warm and breathable hunting pants will aid in keeping their feet warm by helping to maintain the circulation to their feet.

Sweater: Dressing in layers allows you to add or take clothing off as needed.

Vest: A good hunting vest, with lots of pockets, will help you carry and organize and all your accessories. It will also keep you warm on the walk to the stand while carrying your jacket or parka, so you don’t get sweated up.

Thermal Underwear: Long underwear is a must to keep you warm, and to keep you dry it must have good wicking properties, like polypropylene.

Knit Cap: Approximately 10 percent of body heat is lost through your head, so a good knit cap will keep more that your head warm.

Cap with Visor or Brim: A good hat with some type of brim will help keep the sun, rain and the snow out of your eyes. You can wear this hat over your knit cap, if needed.

Facemask: The skin on your face is the most sensitive of anywhere on your body, so cover it up on those bitter cold days. Also, one of the most significant sources of heat loss in mammals is from repository function, and this is why dogs pant when they get hot. You can use the same process in reverse by simply wearing a mask that covers your mouth to prevent some of the heat from leaving your body.

Gloves: Even in mild weather, your hands are typically the fist thing to get cold. Be prepared with a pair of lightweight and a pair heavyweight gloves that are made from some type of wicking material, like polypropylene or wool.

Rain Gear: Having a packable rain jacket and pants or poncho is more than a luxury if you get caught in a downpour.

Boots for trail hikingBoots: Your boots are one of the most important things you will wear. If you were boots that don’t fit well or aren’t broken in, you will be miserable on the hunt. Waterproof boots are a must, as you never know when you will have to ford a stream or river, or have to follow a buck into a swamp. In cold conditions, insulated boots will keep your feet warmer and boots with removable wicking liners work best. Read our guide to buying a great pair of hunting boots.

Extra Boot Liners: With an extra pair of liners you can start each day with dry boots.

Socks: Wear at least two pairs of socks; one lightweight cotton or polypropylene pair under a pair of good heavyweight wool socks will keep your feet warm, dry and help prevent blisters.

Casual Clothing: Unless you want to live in your hunting clothes, pack a sweatshirt and pants along with a jacket for doing camp chores.

Miscellaneous Equipment

Flashlight: Finding your way in or out of the woods, or tracking a deer, in the dark is always easier with light.

Spare Batteries: You never know when the batteries in your flashlight will run out. Always carry a spare pair.

Large Plastic Bags: Use to cover your gear, bow or rifle during an unexpected downpour.

Folding Saw: Use to clear shooting lanes and trimming branches from around your stand.

Small Radio or MP3 Player with Earbuds: Listen to music, talk shows or sporting events to pass the time on stand when the deer aren’t moving, or to relax in camp.

Tree Belt: A handy item with hooks to keep things like your rangefinder or binocos handy on the stand.

Personal Items: Lip balm, toilet paper, etc.

Pee Jug: A gallon milk jug or laundry detergent container will keep you from stinking up you hunting area with human scent. Fill it up during the day, pack it out and empty it when you get back to the truck.

Lady J: If you are a lady hunter, this handy little device is contoured to the shape of the pelvis. It slips inside your hunting pants and has a spout that sticks out the fly to allow you to go, into a jug, just like a guy.

Safety and Emergency Equipment

Safety while hunting should always be a priority. While most hunters will spend their entire hunting lives without incident, just one bad break could cut short a lifetime of enjoyment.

Safety Harness: The number one accident hunters experience is falling from a tree stand. Don’t be a statistic. Keep your knife handy in case of a fall and if, for some reason, you can get yourself upright.

Cell Phone: Not only is your phone your lifeline in an emergency situation, such as getting hurt so bad you can’t even walk or your car battery goes dead, you can call out for pizza if you don’t bring home the venison.

Fire Starting: In an emergency being able to start a fire can literally be the difference between life and death. A good butane lighter or waterproof matches with some cotton balls saturated with petroleum jelly will start a fire even in the rain. If you forget the cotton balls, a plastic credit card makes great emergency tinder, and may even help your financial situation in the process.

Survival Blanket: A space blanket can be a lifesaver if you get wet or have to spend the night in the woods.

Luggage

Hunting Backpack ReviewsBackpack: Your pack needs to be the proper size for the type of hunting you will be doing. For some hunters, a small day pack may suffice. But if you plan on hauling meat in your pack, then you’ll need a much larger, sturdier pack. Check out our guide to hunting backpacks, which includes a section specifically for deer hunting.

Duffel Bags: If you are headed out of town for an extended hunt you will need something to pack all your gear in. As a tip, rolling up your clothes, instead of folding, will allow you to fit much more in a bag.

Bow or Gun Case: These will protect your most expensive piece of hunting equipment in transit, and are a necessity if traveling by plane. Just be sure your case is FAA approved if you plan to fly commercially.

Toiletry Kit: A week in the woods will require a bit of hygiene, so you don’t spook the deer or your hunting buddies.

Hunting Accessories

Hunting Seat: Better than getting a wet and sore butt.

Handmuff with Warmers: Can be worn around your waist and keeps your shooting finger(s) warm and ready.

20+ Ft. Paracord: Used to raise and lower your gear from your tree stand.

Pack: A roomy waist or daypack to carry all your gear and extra clothing.

Deer Scent: Doe in estrus, for attracting the big guy during the rut, or a fox or skunk urine as a cover sent.

Scent Pads and Hanger: Hang scent pads from a tree or tie to drag behind your boots. If you don’t want to buy or carry a hanger you can just tie the pads to a tree branch with string or fishing line.

Young BuckScent-Killer Spray: Nothing stinks like human scents to a deer, particularly the smell of soaps, lotion, tobacco and other associated odors. Hunters support a gargantuan camouflage industry because humans are visually oriented. However, a deer’s nose it its primary defense. Spray scent killer on your boots and all your gear to kill human scent, both before and after heavy activities that cause perspiration. Spray some on a washcloth to use on the back of your neck, underarms and groin areas. Just as camo won’t make you completely invisible, scent killer won’t totally eliminate all human scent, but it will reduce it enough to keep from spooking the deer.

Baking Soda and Water: Carry a small bottle of baking soda dissolved in water to treat areas of your face where you may not want to use scent killer.

Deer Calls: You don’t have to carry enough grunt tubes to build a pipe organ, but every hunter should have one as a grunt can both call a buck in and stop him in his tracks for a standing shot. A doe bleating call can produce similar results. There are also some good all-in-one calls that can cut down on the number of calls you have to carry. A good pair of ratting antlers can make a cagey old buck come in to see who is fighting on his turf. If you don’t have access to a pair of real antlers for rattling, there are commercially-produced synthetic antlers, and bags with rods, that simulate a buck fight. Calls will work on all species of North-American deer, but are most effective on whitetails during the rut.

Tree Stand or Ground Blind: A tree stand will get you up and out of the deer’s line of sight and help you avoid his sense of smell. A ground blind is the next best option, if your not one for climbing trees. There are some great lightweight camouflage blinds that set up in a snap and will completely conceal you from your quarry.

Decoys: A doe decoy can make deer feel safer, increase their curiosity enough to get them to come take a look, or entice a buck to come in to breed the doe. A buck decoy can get a real buck to recklessly charge in for a fight.

Optics

Binoculars: Next to your gun or bow, a good pair of binos can be your most important piece of hunting equipment. Not only can it help you spot a deer at a distance, a pair of binoculars can help you evaluate the animal, determining if it is a buck or a doe, a “legal” buck in areas where there are antler-point restrictions, or a record-book rack if you are trophy hunting. A quality pair of binoculars can also help you tell the difference between an antler tine and a tree branch or a rock and the eye of a deer in thick cover.

spotting scope for deer huntingSpotting Scope: Almost a necessity when hunting the wide-open spaces of the west, a good 50X plus power spotting scope can help locate animals that you may otherwise never knew were there.

Range Finder: What may hunters think of as a luxury item can mean the difference between a missed shot and a filled tag. Range finders are made for both archery and firearm hunters, with the former indicating ranges up to 80 yards and the latter up to 1,000 yards. Without a rangefinder you may pass up a shot at an opportunity that you think is out of your effective shooting range, when it is closer than you think.

Navigation

Unless you are intimately familiar with your hunting area, always have some way of finding your way out of the woods.

Compass: Not only can a compass help you get back to your vehicle, it can also help you locate your deer after the shot. Often that bush, rock or tree you could so easily identify from your lofty perch is not so clear once your are out of the tree. Take a compass reading on the last spot you saw the deer running before you climb down and once safely on the ground line the compass reading up with the base of the tree and start walking.

GPS: Many of the new Global Positioning Satellite devices designed for hunters are as small as a cellphone and are capable of storing enough data to make Hansel and Gretel envious. As long as you don’t loose it in the river, you will never be lost.

Food

Whether you are just out for the day or are headed to camp for a month, you need to fuel your furnace.

Water: The most crucial of all consumables when exerting yourself physically, running out of water on the hunt can literally be deadly. If you find yourself eight miles away from your truck/camp without water, and it is 80 degrees out, you’re in trouble. Use bottles or a hydration bladder, depending your preference, and pack more than you think you’ll need if you plan on doing a lot of hiking.

Lunch: Sandwiches are always ready when you are, or, if you have a way of heating water, a cup of instant soup or chili at midday can really lift your spirits. Balanced nutrition is key to sustain the physical exertion from hunting, make sure you are getting a good balance of protein, carbs, and fats.

Snacks: Fruit, energy bars, jerky, or nuts will keep your stomach from growing between meals. Trail mix is of course the classic hunting snack.

Thermos: A vacuum bottle of coffee, hot chocolate, tea or soup will keep you warm and cheery all day, and will mean not having to heat water for that soup at midday. Thermoses come in sizes from a pint to two quarts, so you can carry as much as you want or as little as you need. As a tip, stick to decaffeinated beverages as much as possible, so you won’t have to tinkle as often.

Menus: If you are going on an extended outing, you will need to plan out a menu for each day you will be gone. Unless you are camping next to an all-night diner, breakfasts, lunches, dinners and snack must all be accounted for. Take your time and sit down and think about what you want to eat for the duration of your trip. Just be sure to have enough fat and carbohydrates to give your body the energy it needs to trek through the woods all day. Canned, dehydrated and powder foods, like pasta, rice, spaghetti sauce and powder milk, will keep the best.

Ice Chest: Great for packing all your food, and if you camp by a creek you can use the unending supply of cold water, or ice of its cold enough, to keep your vittles chilled.

Utensils: Knives, forks, spoons, mugs, dishes, pots and pans, a dish tub and dish towels, so you don’t have to eat with your fingers.

Camping Equipment

Tent: If you are camping by yourself a small one or two-person tent is sufficient. For larger groups, a wall tent will keep everyone comfy and even give you space to cook your meals.

Sleeping bag(s): Be sure your bag is rated for at least 10 degrees colder than the lowest temperature you expect on the trip.

Sleeping Pads or Air Mattress: As the saying goes, an inch of insulation on the bottom is worth six inches on top. Closed-cell foam pads are thin, lightweight and great for insulating, but aren’t the softest for sleeping on. However, these work best when packing in away from the road, such as in the wilderness areas of the west. When space and weight is at an issue, an air mattress hard to beat.

Camp Stove and Fuel: A simple two-burner camp stove can cook your meals and double as a heater for your tent. A large bulk propane tank with a regulator hose will be more economical that buying small disposable bottles of propane at the discount mart.

Packing Out

Depending on where you are hunting, and the law, you may only need a knife and a rope to drag out your deer, or you may need to butcher it down to the bone on the spot.

hunting knivesHunting Knife: A good fixed blade or folding knife to dress your deer. A high-quality folding knife can have some advantages over a fixed blade, often having two or three blades for different jobs, such as a standard blade, a gut hook and a saw blade. However, a fixed blade knife will be able to handle much more punishment.

Rubber Gloves: Will keep your hands clean of blood, and protect you from any diseases the deer may be carrying, during field dressing.

Plastic Bag: Large enough to hold the liver, heart and kidneys, if you save the organs.

Bone Saw: If you need to quarter your deer in the field.

Six-Foot Drag Rope: Better than having to pull the deer all the way back to your truck by its antlers.

Small Bock and Tackle: A couple of small double pulleys and 30 feet of paracord will allow you to get your deer up and off the ground all by your lonesome.

Orange Surveyor’s Tape: Use to mark a lost blood trail or the way back to your deer, should you have to leave it in the woods overnight.

Deer Tag: You know why you need it, just be sure you don’t forget it, or the game warden won’t be your biggest fan.

Loading a hunting rifle

Rifle Hunting vs. Bow Hunting: The Hunter’s Weapon of Choice

  • April 3, 2016 /

Hunting to bring home the “bacon” can be traced all the way back to the Stone Age. It’s not just about eating, but many traditions have steamed from this time-honored sport of finding and killing the biggest and best animals to stock the freezer. In the world of hunting, there are two weapons that are commonly used; the bow and the rifle. The avid hunter has their own preference when it comes to hunting, but there is no right or wrong answer. There are pros and cons to each method, and cost and time are always a factor. The dual between the bow and rifle is an age old battle that doesn’t seem to have any resolution in sight.

Rifles Provide Deadly Accuracy

Loading a hunting rifleWhen first branching into the hunting scene, many people automatically take a rifle as their weapon of choice. Since guns have been used for more than two centuries, rifles are so omnipresent that most people don’t realize what their other options are. A rifle is mechanical in nature, and because of this, they are better than bows in many respects. A rifle is very easy to use, and the ammunition is transportable. They can target animals at a much greater distance, and the long range options give a better chance at a sure kill.

Learning how to shoot a gun is relatively simple. It only takes a few practice shots to acquire a talent for hitting the target with ease. Those who don’t have a great deal of time love the simple nature of a gun. Bow hunters must be stealthy and crafty; something the rifle hunter doesn’t have to worry about. Another big advantage is that the rifle user can shoot his target from several hundred yards away while the bow hunter has to be within 40 yards to get a clear shot.

The rifle is much more accessible. It has been the weapon of choice for so long, and there are many traditions build around this method of hunting. Some families believe that when a boy hits thirteen that it’s time for him to have his own rifle. Some pass down their rifles through the generations as tradition. Guns definitely increase in value so they an asset to have. They are considered family heirlooms and a precious piece of the past.

Breaking Down the Costs Between Bows and Rifles

Rifles have been considered the superior hunting method, but there is a large market for bows too. One of the negative aspects of bow hunting is the initial expenses involved. Those who want to try their hand at hunting might not want to pay so much up front; especially if they are not sure if it is a sport they will like. A modern bow and equipment setup will cost anywhere from $1-$2 thousand dollars. The cost of bows is significantly more than ammunition for a gun too. Once an archer shoots a few arrows, it’s clear that they are easily lost in the woods.

For around $1,000, a hunter can get a rifle with tons of accessories. The costs can be shocking for the bow alone, add in all the gear and it’s the price of a beater used car. A good archer will have cameo gear, clothes that are scentless, and other gadgets to get them in close proximity to the animal. The only expenditure isn’t money; time is something that must be considered too. They must learn how to use the bow and have deadly accuracy, which takes much time and a great deal of effort.

The Art of Bow Hunting

Bow Hunting SilhouetteBow hunters must be more skilled to get their animal and that skill isn’t something they are going to develop overnight. Rifle hunters don’t need to be as careful in the woods, their gun does most of the work for them. It seems that nearly every hunter starts with a rifle first and then switches to a bow at a later point. They like the thrill of being able to hunt at different times and using diverse methods. It can take years to become proficient with a bow, and some hunters don’t have the time of patience for that. However, once they conquer the art of bow hunting, it’s a feat that brings bragging rights.

Why Bow Hunting Is Such A Challenge?

Just because it’s a little difficult, costly, and time-consuming doesn’t mean there isn’t a big market for bow hunting. It is estimated that more than 75 percent of those who use a bow to hunt also use a gun. A shotgun can reach a further distance, but they don’t need to hide and blend in with their surroundings so much. The bow hunter must try to be incognito to get the prize catch. They must also get to know the animal and their behaviors. It requires getting into the animals’ head and trying to figure out their next move.

A rifle hunter doesn’t have to put so much work into their game; they just point and shoot. They don’t require the tip-toeing through the woods that the bow hunter requires. Still, most say that it really just comes down to preference. Both types of weapons get the job done, it’s just what the person prefers, what their forefathers preferred, and what their budget and time schedule dictates.

Why The Bow Hunting Craze?

bow hunting in the snowThe U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service estimates that there are 13 million hunters each year in the US. Of those people, 33 percent of those people choose to hunt with a bow. The popularity of the bow has drastically increased, and it has quickly become the object that everyone needs for their hunting collection. A well-rounded hunter can use either a bow or a rifle to hunt. The bow has really gained in popularity over the past couple decades and many view it as a newfangled way to peruse the hunting game; however, bow hunting is the original method. At least 67 percent of hunters use a rifle regularly, but most will, at least, try to bow hunt at least once in their lives.

Many say that bow hunting feels like a natural way to hunt. It reminds some hunters of how the old-timers used to hunt before there were expensive guns and rifles. Cavemen didn’t have such elaborate toys, they had to make things like bows and arrows to kill their prey. They had to really know what they were doing because they wouldn’t eat if they didn’t come home with a catch. They didn’t have the scented clothes and all the extra gadgets that are available now; they had to use their own ingenuity to catch their food. Rather than looking through a telescope at a deer 200 yards away, a bow allows you to get up close and personal with the animal. Some say it is how hunting should be done. Bow hunting gives an adrenaline rush that using the rifle doesn’t offer.

Bow Hunters Have An Advantage On Allowable Hunting Times

One of the reasons why many hunters are picking up a bow is because of the generous seasonal times. Most states allow more hunting time and limits for bow hunters. In the state of Minnesota, those who hunt with a bow will get to hunt for several months. However, when it comes to hunting with a gun; hunters only get two weekends. Some say they will use the bow during bow hunting season and their rifle when it is in season, which allows them to have the best of both worlds. Bow season usually gets an earlier start than gun season. Bow hunters have another advantage too. When gun season starts, many animals go into hiding. The guns cause quite a stir in the woods and the animals will stay out of sight. The bow hunter isn’t making a great deal of noise and the animals are more likely to wonder about the woods freely. Some of the biggest bucks ever shot were done by an angler.

Bowhunter-ed.com took a survey of hunters and their love for bows. When asking why the hunters preferred to use a bow to hunt, they responded that it was because they got to hunt first and longer than rifle hunters. Whether intentional or not, it seems that bow season occurs at a time when there is more plentiful game. Muzzleloader and rifle season usually don’t have the same luxury of time.

Bow Hunting Strengthens Various Skills

One aspect of bow hunting that cannot be avoided is the fact that it provides great exercise. The majority of hunters are men and nothing is better for building those biceps than pulling back on a bow. Guns require no effort to shoot. Though they may kick a little, they are not going to help build strong muscles anytime soon. The bow, on the other hand, will do just that. Depending on the draw weight, it can really develop chiseled arms. The bow also has the ability to work on target-directed motor skills. That’s why 58 percent of hunters polled said they liked the workout that using a bow provided and the challenge really fed into their male drive.

Speed and Range Means Everything To A Hunter

Hunter Carrying a RifleA long range rifle can shoot effectively up to 1,000 yards away, but the modern bow can only kill an animal from up to 40 yards. A bullet’s speed can be greater than 3,000 feet per second, while the arrow tops out below 400. The bow is meant to be a short-range hunting tool. The ideal distance for a bow hunter is around 30-40 feet; the closer the better. Hunters lose their composure the further distance they have to shoot. So it provides for a greater victory, and sense of accomplishment, when getting an animal with a bow.

Tip Toe through the Woods- The Quiet Nature of a Bow

Everybody knows that one of the most important aspects of hunting is being quiet. Unless the animals are really tame, any slight noise is going to send them running for cover. True, a gun doesn’t require the hunter to get super close for a shot, on the other hand, the bow does. One thing to consider is that a stealth mission requires real skill. Even with one of the best silencers on the market, the rifle is still going to be loud. The muzzle flash is what gives most hunters away. Animals within that general area are going to run for cover.

The bow is whisper quiet. The only thing that is heard is the twang caused from an arrow loosening from the bow. The bow hunter is in camouflaged clothing and blending in with nature, so once again the animals aren’t alarmed. The swift silence of the bow isn’t going to disrupt the woods like the load echoing gunfire will.

Human Skills against Animal Instinct

Some hunters feel that for hunting to be a real sport the animal has to have an even playing field. In rifle hunting, the animal doesn’t stand a chance. The animals’ chance of survival is pretty limited due to the distance a gun can shoot and its deadly precision. An animal has a better chance of survival when a bow is used to hunt. This means the hunter must have skills, and it becomes human skills against animal instinct. A gun takes away the animals skill set and does nothing to enhance the hunters.

Take for instance a deer that is standing one hundred and fifty yards away. A rifle equipped with a scope won’t give the animal a chance to escape; they are as good as gone. If a bow was used, the hunt would be much different for the animal. The hunter must have better skills and some say it’s the only fair way to hunt.

Is Bow Hunting Unfair To The Animal?

Many studies have been done to see how quick an animal dies when shot with an arrow, as opposed to being shot with a bullet. What they found is that a gunshot almost always kills instantly, no matter where on the body the shot occurs. However, when it comes to the bow, the animals may need to be shot up to 14 times before its dies. In between those shots is pure misery for the animal.

A recent study done by Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks found that 54 percent of animals struck with a bow were left wounded and had crippling injuries, but they never died. Sure, there are plenty of animals brought out of the woods and tagged, but for everyone one that was caught there are many who ran off wounded and will die hours, days, or even weeks later. This leaves the animal defenseless against further attacks by other natural predators. A shot with a bow doesn’t ensure that the animals will die, and that doesn’t always set right with animal activists.

Some hunters are against a bow and arrow method of hunting because some say it is borderline impossible to kill an animal at such a short range. Even Olympic class archers can only hit the bull’s-eye when the target isn’t moving and there is no foliage between them. It’s hard to hunt with a bow.

A group called Fins and Feathers did a study of 2,370 hunters who were seeking elk. The hunters’ reported that 1,161 were hit with their arrows, but only 49 percent of those animals were retrieved. That means that more than 50 percent of these animals laid in agony before dying. Their prolonged death was for naught, as the hunter didn’t benefit with the meat and the animal died anyway. Even if the animals were able to wander off, they are likely to have an infection or peritonitis set in a week later.

Rifle Hunting vs. Bow Hunting: Which is Better?

The rifle is by all accounts the superior weapon, but it doesn’t give the hunter the same experience. They don’t have the same feelings, and it’s not the same hunting with a rifle as it is a bow. The weapons are each different and which one a person prefers is based on many factors. Some look to tradition for their current methods, while others look to convenience. There are those that are out for the pure thrill of it all.

Getting so close to a deer that you can nearly taste the deer steaks is right where some hunters want to be, and a bow is a weapon that will put you in the center of the action. When it comes to the preference, it has a lot to do with how much time a hunter wants to put into their game. New bows have increased the distance that an angler can get from the animal and also the precision of the shot. It’s worthwhile for a hunter to know how to use both types of common hunting methods and to perfect each art. Guns and bows both have their place.

Raw Venison Roast

How to Cook Venison (Plus Ten Recipes)

  • March 31, 2016 /

The secret to venison is in its preparation. This is because even farm-raised venison tends to be considerably drier and gamier than beef or lamb. Some people describe the taste of venison as mutton with a hint of beefiness.

What Is Venison?

Raw Venison RoastVenison is the meat of any type of deer. It does not just come from the white tail deer that are seen so often strapped to the tops of pick-up trucks or SUVs in the fall. Venison can also come from mule deer, red deer, reindeer, caribou, elk and even moose. Even antelope meat is considered venison. It matters not if the deer was wild, semi-tame like those deer found in those deer parks that belong to Great British country homes or raised as livestock like sheep. Venison used to be a bit challenging to obtain unless one had shot one’s own deer or bought meat from a hunter. However, nowadays venison can be found in specialty meat stores or can be ordered online.

Though venison ordered online can be pricey, if a person goes hunting and bags their own deer, the cost can be much less, pound for pound, than beef.

After the Hunt

After bringing down a deer, many people rush the processing, or outsource it by bringing the animal to a butcher. This is often a mistake, and results in a lower quality of venison. Meat is very easily tainted if an animal is not processed quickly, and most butchers combine animals when making meats like burger and sausage, so you can easily end up with tainted meat even if you do gut the animal properly.

According to some connoisseurs, buck meat is actually better tasting than that of a doe, and the meat of an older deer tastes better than that of a young one. This is because the meat of a too-young deer hasn’t developed the characteristic texture and taste that people prize in venison. On the other hand, some people believe that the meat of an old buck who has been harvested during the rut has a strange taste and is a bit too tough. Deer that are killed quickly and cleanly also seem to have meat that is sweeter and more tender.

A deer that’s been brought down is best field dressed right away, but this can be postponed for a couple of hours. The cooler the weather, the longer the field dressing can be postponed. It is best to remove the animal’s innards as soon as practicable. This prevents the meat from being unacceptably gamy and allows the carcass to cool down rapidly.

The animal’s throat really does not need to be cut to bleed it if it’s been field dressed, but some professionals suggest hanging the carcass upside down from a tree or letting it drain out on a slant if there are no trees in the area or the trees aren’t strong enough to support the carcass. Eviscerating a deer requires fairly large, sturdy and very sharp knives and steel chain mail gloves. A small knife can twist in the hand when it hits a bone.

Most people start butchering the deer around the shoulders, with the knife parallel to the animal’s ribs. Then, the back straps are prepared, followed by the neck. The ribcage meat is then butchered, and a saw is used to remove the backbone. The sirloin is removed, then the hindquarters are removed and boned. The shoulders are also boned, and the rest of the cuts are trimmed.

The deer also does not need to be skinned right away, but can be skinned after the carcass has been cooled down. This should be done ideally after the deer is field-dressed because the cut to the animal’s belly that allowed it to be eviscerated can be joined to the skinning cuts and the hide can be pulled off in one piece. Most people find it is easiest to hang a deer upside down and make the first cuts around the bends of the legs. It is absolutely essential to have a sharp knife. A bone saw is used to remove the deer’s head. If it’s a buck, the hunter tends to want to keep this.

Though venison can be eaten fresh, many people appreciate a bit of gaminess. People who have collected their own deer from the wild can encourage this gaminess by dressing the animal and allowing it to hang head down in an airy place with a temperature a few degrees above freezing for about 12 to 21 days. Ideally, aging should be done during the cooler weather. In many places, fall and early winter make up the deer hunting season, and this is the best time for aging the deer in this manner. Make sure that no flies or other vermin have access to the carcass, and make sure the meat does not freeze, for freezing will inhibit aging and subject the meat to faster spoilage when it thaws out.

The air that circulates around the meat will dry it out, and this dry layer should be trimmed along with cartilage, fat and everything that is not muscle after the meat is aged. A good, sharp boning knife can do this. The carcass should be placed on a sturdy, flat surface, and the muscle should be cut against the grain into slices or chunks.

After the meat is cut it should be put in the freezer right away unless it is going to be cooked. It should first be placed into plastic bags, and the air should be squeezed out of them before they’re sealed. If the meat is to be in the freezer for more than a few days, it should be further placed in freezer paper, taped shut and dated. Done this way, the venison should be good for up to a year in the freezer.

Other people wrap the meat in plastic wrap, then wrap it in butcher paper, seal it with tape, and then date it.

Venison Cuts

Venison cuts are much like the cuts of sheep or lamb. The carcass is divided into the neck, which provides trimmings; the shoulder, which provides stew meat and chuck roast; the rack end saddle, which provides boneless loin and chops, and the leg, which provides meat for stir frying, trim and boneless fillets. There’s the shank, or lower leg, which provides osso buco. The foreleg also provides osso buco. The loin end saddle gives boneless loin, tenderloin, sirloin and noisettes while the ribs provide trim and spareribs. A noisette is simply a round, smallish piece of lean meat.

As with sheep and cattle, different cuts of meat need different cooking times depending on how hard the muscles needed to work while the animal was alive. Generally, the meat found in the front part of the animal needs to be cooked slowly, while the meat from the middle and back can be cooked quickly. The exception is the meat from the shank, whose muscles had to do some work since it was part of the hind leg.

Though most people do not eat parts of the head, smoked tongue is eaten as a delicacy in Scandinavia. Venison is also used to make patés and sausages. Venison can also be ground to make patties and meatloaf. People also eat venison heart, liver and kidneys.

Venison is also served as jerky. This means it is sliced into strips, salted and dried. When jerky is ready it can be eaten right away and does not need to be refrigerated.

How To Buy

When buying venison, the flesh should be dark red and close grained. The fat should be bright and clear, but it should be trimmed off before cooking because it isn’t very appetizing. Instead, replace the fat with bacon, pancetta, prosciutto or other pork before cooking. Another thing to do before cooking is to put the venison in a marinade to make it more tender. This marinade can be made of oil, vinegar, spices and red wine. Traditionally, juniper berries are also added. Some cooks just soak the venison in a very good olive oil.

Prepping

Venison Sausages on the GrillWhen it’s time to cook the venison, remove it from the marinade and wipe dry. Wrap it in pork fat or lard it with thick strips of bacon or fatback. Larding is the process of inserting pieces of fat into venison or other lean meat. Some people use fatback or a very fatty bacon to lard. There are still people who soak the bacon in vermouth or cognac first. Then, they cut it into inch long triangles and freeze it, then cut slits in the venison and insert the frozen triangles. It’s important that the triangles be inserted all the way into the meat, which is why the bacon or fatback needs to be frozen hard. They should be inserted every inch or two inches in the piece of venison.

On the other hand, some people simply lay strips of fatback or bacon all over the cut of venison, and then wrap it in a piece of parchment paper that’s been oiled. Then, they secure it with string. Folks who don’t want to bother with this wrap the venison in aluminum foil. Spices that work well with venison include juniper berries, rosemary and warm, tropical spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, mace and allspice.

Offal is also eaten. These are just the internal organs of the deer. The heart has a taste that reminds some people of the sirloin. It needs to be cleaned of its connective tissue and fat first. Cut off the top of the heart, then trim off the outer membrane without slicing deeply into the muscle. Then, butterfly the heart and trim the connective tissue out of the chambers. This is best done with a small, very sharp knife like a paring knife.

The kidney also needs to be cleaned fairly thoroughly before it is eaten. All fat, connective tissue and membrane need to be removed from the outside of the kidney with a sharp knife. Then, the kidney needs to be cut in two and the white vein removed completely. The cook can use kitchen scissors to do this. Kidney can also be soaked overnight in milk to remove any hint of urine. Venison liver can also be soaked in milk overnight after it’s prepared.

Deer offal, by the way, is not strictly called venison, but umbles, as in ‘umble pie.

Cooking

Cook Venison SteakSome experts recommend that the meat of a buck be cooked for 25 minutes per pound while the meat of a doe should be cooked for 20 minutes per pound. Tender cuts should be cooked in a hot oven, while tougher cuts can be cooked in a slow oven of about 300 degrees Fahrenheit. The meat is done when the juices run clear when it’s pierced with a knife. There should be no sign of blood. Rare to medium rare venison should have an internal temperature of 130 to 140 degrees F when tested by an instant read thermometer.

The cook should be careful to not undercook venison, especially if it is from a wild animal. Undercooked meat brings a risk of disease. Of course, overcooked venison is tough and chewy.

Venison cuts are also versatile and can be cooked in a variety of ways. According to some experts, boneless loin can be broiled, sautéed or barbecued over direct heat. It can also be roasted.

Tenderloin can also be broiled, sautéed, direct barbecued and roasted, as can sirloin and boneless leg fillets. Noisettes are best broiled, sautéed, direct barbecued but not roasted. Kabobs can be direct barbecued or broiled, as can hamburger patties. Trim can be sautéed or stir fried, while cutlets can be broiled or sautéed and fried.

Chop ready rack of venison is best sautéed or roasted, while stew chunks should be braised. The best way to do this is to brown the meat in a Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot, then remove the meat and cook the onions, garlic and other aromatics till golden, then add the herbs. When herbs have wilted, return the meat to the pot and add enough liquid to cover. Bring to a simmer, and then place the pot in a cool oven of about 200 degrees. Simmer from four to 12 hours or until the meat falls off the bone. When this is done, take the meat from the pot and reduce the sauce.

Chuck or shoulder roast are best roasted, braised or placed over indirect heat on the barbecue. This is also true of ribs. Osso buco or shanks should also be braised, while ground venison that is to go into pasta sauces should be broiled or sautéed. Sausages can be broiled, sautéed, placed over direct heat on a barbecue or steamed.

Recipes

Here are some of our favorite venison recipes:

Accompaniments

Venison is best served with a strong condiments such as cranberry sauce, currant jelly or spiced cherries. Cumberland sauce goes especially well with venison. This is a fruit sauce that is often used with game. It’s made up of the juice and zest of orange and lemon, ruby port, red current jelly and a pinch of cayenne and cinnamon. As the ingredients suggest, this sauce is sweet, hot and spicy all at once.

Other side dishes that go well with venison are wild rice, dumplings, noodles and mashed potatoes. These last three are especially popular with venison in the northern European countries of Germany and Scandinavia. Red cabbage is also traditionally served with venison in these parts of Europe.

Nutrition

Pound for pound, venison has less fat and cholesterol than beef. A 93 gram patty of ground venison has 174 calories. Sixty-nine of those calories are from fat, and the total fat content is 8 grams. Four of those grams are saturated fat, and there is no trans fat. There are 1.8 g of monounsaturated fat and .04 g of polyunsaturated fat. A venison patty has 91 milligrams of cholesterol and 73 mg of sodium. It has no carbohydrates, dietary fiber or sugar, but has 25 g of protein.

A venison hamburger has no vitamin A or C but provides 1 percent of the daily value of calcium and 17 percent daily value of iron. It has 0.6 mg of vitamin E as alpha tocopherol and 1.3 micrograms of vitamin K. Venison is exceptionally rich in the B vitamins, which do much to support the health of the nervous system and other systems in the body. A patty has 0.5 mg of thiamin, 0.3 mg of riboflavin, 8.6 mg of niacin, 0.4 mg of vitamin B6, 7.4 mcg of folate, 2.2 mcg of vitamin B12, 0.7 mg of pantothenic acid, an impressive 94.8 mg of choline and 12.5 mg of betaine.

Venison is also surprisingly rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which help to lower the “bad” cholesterol and contribute to good cardiovascular health. A venison patty has 87.4 mg of omega-3 fatty acids and 247 mg of omega-6 fatty acids.

Venison also contains necessary minerals for good health. A 93 g patty has 13.0 mg of calcium, 3.1 mg or iron, 22.3 mg of magnesium, 212 mg of phosphorus, 339 mg of potassium, 72.5 mg of sodium, 4.8 mg of zinc. It also has 01. mg of copper, and 9.6 mcg of selenium. The meat has no alcohol, caffeine or theobromine, but has 59.7 g of water and 1.0 g of ash.

Wild-caught or bought pre-packaged, venison is not only delicious when prepared and cooked properly, but is full of nutrition and surprisingly low in calories.

Boots for trail hiking

Reviews of the Best Hunting Boots in 2017

  • March 24, 2016 /

When on the hunt, there is one piece of gear that will determine your level of enjoyment more than any other: your boots. Many novice hunters don’t give much attention to what they put their feet in before a big hunt, but experienced hunters know that a pair that doesn’t fit properly, isn’t warm/waterproof enough, or lacks proper tread will turn an incredible hunt into a miserable experience.

Boots for trail hikingUncomfortable feet, whether due to cold, wet, or heat can completely throw off your hunting game at just the wrong time. A number of problems can be caused by the usage of improper hunting boots. Fungal infections, cold weather injury, falls or accidents can be a result of boots that are not right for your feet or your type of hunting expedition.

Shopping for hunting boots is not about walking into a store and picking out a pair of shoes that you think look good as you would when buying a regular pair of shoes. No, hunting for hunting boots is knowing in advance where you will be hunting, what type of game you will be hunting, what the weather will be like, whether you will be mobile or stable, and what kind of terrain you will be traversing.

This guide is guaranteed to help you get a better idea of what you need to look for when buying a new pair of hunting boots. You can read the in depth guide that covers what you need to look for, or skip straight to our product recommendations at the bottom using the table of contents.

What to Look For When Shopping For Hunting Boots

How High Should My Boots Be?

In order to get the best pair of boots for maximum comfort and agility, you want to make sure that you are getting a pair of boots that are the right height for hunting. Why? Think about what hunting consists of. Will you be sitting on your behind waiting for the animals to pass by for you to shoot? While you may have to do this at times, much of your hunting experience will be trekking through a variety of terrains.

If you are hunting through marshes or wet areas, wearing a pair of high water proof boots is highly important. There is nothing worse than wearing the wrong pair of boots on a hunting expedition and not being able to focus on your target or being delayed because of them. Hunting is about being quick on your feet and sharp with your rifle.

On the flip side, wearing a high pair of hunting boots on dry terrain in warmer weather may cause a lot of discomfort. If you are planning to sit in a stand or remain stationary throughout your hunt, then you may not be too concerned with the height of your boots, unless you plan to hunt in very cold weather and could appreciate the added warmth. But, be careful, you may find high boots can become somewhat uncomfortable during stationary hunts.

When shopping for hunting boots and choosing height, think about the location of your next hunting expedition. High boots can also help to protect your legs from snake bites, thorny bushes, and a variety of challenges they may come across while trekking through the wild in search of the perfect target.

Why Should I Wear Insulated Boots?

You want to wear insulated boots when it comes to hunting in the winter time or in colder environments. There is no way that you will want to be hunting with freezing toes and the possibility of hypothermia. Insulated boots are ideal for hunting seasons when there is predicted snowfall. While they may be heavier than your average hunting boots, most people think that it is worth it for the added warmth.

If you aren’t willing to spend a good amount of money on a good pair of insulated hunting boots, on top of your normal hunting boots, then you can invest in a good pair of extremely warm wool socks, but this may cause some difficulty if you walk a lot, due to sweat and snow seeping in.

It isn’t usually suggested to take this route, as wearing the proper hunting boots can make or break the success of your hunt and even mean keeping your toes healthy and intact. If you plan to be primarily immobile on your hunt, insulated boots are a must have during cold weather as the lack of movement means you’ll feel the cold even more.

Imagine being on a hunt and having the time of your life when you start to feel the cold seeping in until you find yourself not being able to concentrate on anything else but your feet. This is where choosing well comes in and with these tips in mind, you surely will.

What Material? Should They Be Waterproofed?

Most hunters will consider leather to be the best material for hunting boots. Why? This high quality material ensure long-lasting use from these boots and when it comes to what are often costly boots, you want to make sure you are getting a good return on your investment.

Other popular materials that are used in hunting boots that the experienced hunter will look for are rubber and high quality fabrics. Rubber is ideal for wet terrains or snowy conditions. It helps to keep the water out, which is of extreme importance while you are hunting. Waterproof boots are necessary whenever there is the presence of snow, water, or the possibility of rain. Anyone knows that wet feet in any land activity is no fun and even less so while on the hunt for your favorite target.

Waterproof BootsSomething else that you want to look for when shopping for hunting boots is the material that is used on the interior of the boot. With the abundance of physical activity that is often involved in hunting, your feet tend to sweat and you need materials that will allow the moisture to escape in order to avoid blisters, etc. Look for boots that have polyester and polyamide materials and synthetic fabrics that allow the boots to “bleed.”

It is highly important to make sure to buy the right pair of boots for the kind of hunting that you will be doing. If you know that you will be hunting in cold weather, you will want to find boots that are made specifically for snow or if you will be hunting in wetland, you will want to make sure you are using waterproof boots.

In warm weather, you will want to avoid wearing insulated boots as this will make your feet feel much too warm while on the hunt and that can be just as bad as having cold feet while out hunting. Neither extreme is good and will keep you distracted from hitting your targets.

Here are some ideas of what type of boots you should look for depending on the weather:

  • Cold weather hunting– Insulated, waterproof, and typically with battery powered warming technology
  • Wetland terrain hunting– Rubber, high-length, and waterproof with ventilation technology
  • Warm weather hunting– Comfortable and easy to get around in, but provide less ankle support

The majority of hunting boots are made with materials such as nylon, animal hide, steel shanks, leather, rubber, and many different kinds of synthetic materials.

What Are Some of the Best Brands for Hunting Boots?

It may be tricky when looking for hunting boots due to the abundance of brands that promise the best use and life out of them. When it comes to finding boots that you can trust, it’s more than just about finding popular brand names. You want to get boots that have a strong reputation for being reliable for the hunt and brands that you know will provide you with all the right components for fair prices. Following-in no particular order-are a compilation of brands that are known for being trustworthy for their hunting boots:

There are many more brands that offer fantastic hunting boots, these brands are nearly always on the top of many a hunter’s lists for sturdy, waterproof, and reliable boots. Some people may feel that there has been a downward shift in quality with brands such as LaCrosse, due to the company choosing to manufacture the boots elsewhere, but this may come down to a personal preference and isn’t a hard and fast rule. Many people still love and rave about LaCrosse hunting boots, and you will find them to be amongst some of the top rated boots for men and women.

More Tips for Finding the Perfect Boots

  • Boots for barren terrainFinding the right pair of hunting boots is more than just getting a good brand, but also knowing exactly what you will need them for. If you know that you will be primarily stationary on your hunt, then you may not need to worry too much about having a good tread or extreme comfort.
  • If you know that your next hunting trip will be in snowy conditions and where you will be carrying a lot of weight, you will want to be sure to invest in a pair of insulated and durable boots with a strong tread.
  • Check the tread on your potential hunting boots if you are hoping to hunt during icy and snowy weather. Hunting boots without good soles will make it difficult for you during long mobile days on the hunt and you may become much more distracted with not slipping, you don’t get any hunting done. Tread is sometimes ignored due to people’s interest in warmth or waterproof qualities, but it makes a difference in your feet’s comfort, and more importantly on how well you can traverse difficult ground.
  • If you are ordering online, it isn’t possible to try them on until they arrive at your doorstep, but if you are able to try on a pair before buying them, remember the following:
    1. Don’t try them on in the morning when your feet are swollen. They may seem like the perfect fit until you realize later that they are actually a bit too snug for long hours on your feet. Buying hunting boots that are too small is a big no-no and will be a waste of your time and money.
    2. Wear the socks that you will be wearing during the hunting expedition. If you will be hunting in cold weather and want to wear bulky socks, try them on with the same type of socks. Just remember that if you will be buying non-insulated boots, you will want to go big with the wool socks.
    3. If there is some moving room in your potential pair of hunting boots, that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. While you don’t want to get a pair of boots that are too big, a little breathing room will definitely benefit you after long days on your feet and especially if you are trekking over many miles to get the perfect target.
    4. Spending a lot of money on a pair of boots that have everything you want in a boot except that they are too small will most likely put a damper on your hunting trip. Cramped toes on a long hunt will make you question your existence! Don’t go small and snug!
  • Something very important to remember while on the search for your hunting boots is the scent of your boots. You want to be sure to either purchase a pair of rubber boots or be sure to hide the scent of your new boots. If you’re hunting deer, you want to be sure that there is no way they will be able to smell you before you get to them.
  • If you are planning on hunting for a long period of time, you may want to shop for a stronger, heavier, and more durable boot than if you were only going out for one day. Where a heavy boot may be annoying for a one-day hunt, it is highly recommended for long scouting and hunting expeditions so that your boots continue to offer you the protection that you need.
  • Some hunters may complain of how stiff boots affect their walking and seem to slow them down and while this may be true for a short hunting trip, when it comes to going out for a long haul, you will find that not only will the boots break in with time, but they will also last the whole trip through and keep you protected throughout the experience.
  • This is an obvious tip and it may be impossible for you to find a pair of hunting boots of this sort, but if you were thinking of adding bling or getting boots that don’t look like they belong in the terrain you will be visiting and hunting in this may not be the best idea. Camouflage is key to catching your game by surprise.

Best Hunting Boots for Men

The Original MuckBoots Adult FieldBlazer Hunting Boot: This is an all-time favorite hunting boot that many men rave about. These babies are completely waterproof due to their primarily rubber exterior that works wonders to keep water out. For people who hunt in swampy or wet areas, there is nothing like high rubber hunting boots that not only keep moist out, but are comfortable for long hours of hunting.

These boots won’t work so well in cold weather environments, but for any other season they are the perfect match for many hunters.

LaCrosse Men’s 18 Grange Hunting Boots: These are highly popular boots in the hunting world. With their Chevron-cleated outsoles and a waterproof exterior, these boots are not only good-looking, but they are also quite handy while on the hunt.

Many people love how sturdy they are and appreciate the durability that they provide. While some may notice that due to the Ankle-Fit narrowed ankle pocket there tends to be wear and tear in that area, the strength of these men’s hunting boots is hard to beat.

Danner Men's Canadian Hunting BootDanner Canadian Hunting Boots: You want sturdy and reliable men’s boots for your hunting expedition, and these are durable and combine a number of key components that make them perfect for most hunting trips. With plenty of insulation for cold climates, a strong rubber sole, and made out of leather, they not only look rugged but are ideal for active hunting expeditions.

While these boots could be considered a bit pricey, the comfort and long-lasting life that they offer make them worth the extra dollars.

Irish Setter Men’s Trail Phantom Big Game Boot: Not only a good looking boot, but it provides hunters with the warmth they need on the cold days with Thinsulate insulation and are waterproof to ensure that your feet stay dry. They also have an amazing tread that will keep your feet sturdy on slippery and uneven terrain. Many would consider this to be a strong boot even with its light-weight build.

While the sizing may run a little small, if you keep this in mind when shopping for your hunting boots, these could be a great pick depending on your hunting plans.

Best Hunting Boots for Women

LaCrosse Women’s 18 Alphaburly Sport Break Up Hunting Boot: These deserve some recognition for being a strong women’s hunting boot that is ideal for cold weather hunting and long-lasting durability. The fleece lining is perfect for managing your feet’s moisture making them ideal for long days out in the woods.

While sizing may be somewhat off, these babies have the reputation for being some of the most comfortable women’s hunting boots on the market. You may not want them for summer hunting, but when it comes to snowy days out on a hunting expedition, these “Alpha’s” will keep you warm and cozy throughout your adventure.

Bushnell XLander Women's Hunting BootsBushnell Women’s Xlander Hunting Boot: These are both aesthetically attractive and functional boots for women’s hunting. Made out of leather and fabric with a rubber sole, these boots are comfortable and durable for hunting. While they aren’t perfect for swampy or wetland areas and snake-infested areas, they do the job for your average hunting expedition. They work well for snowy expeditions due to their effective insulation.

These hunting boots are good for any woman who wants to go on a physically active hunting adventure. They provide users with agility and freedom of movement.

LaCrosse Women’s Alphaburly Pro 15 Real Tree: Simply put: a great pair of hunting boots. They are ideal for cold and snowy conditions with their waterproof materials, strong soles, and high-length. Whether you are going hunting in muddy and wet terrain or you are planning a hunting expedition in winter time, these boots do the job that they were made for-to keep you warm no matter the weather.

Bushnell Women’s Mountaineer Hunting Boots: A strong pair of boots to keep women on the hunt for as long as they want. Many would consider these insulated and waterproof and love the comfort that they provide. They are also a great looking pair of boots, which although low on the list of priorities when you are looking for your hunting boot, make shopping for hunting boots a lot more fun.

These hunting boots are lightweight making it easy to trek while on the hunt. The fit is considered to be a bit narrow, but overall they are considered to be strong, warm, and dependable hunting boots.

Best Insulated Hunting Boots for Cold Weather

LaCrosse AeroHead Hunting Boots: These provide hunters with the complete layer of warmth required for winter-time hunting. They are made with a neoprene with a layered liquid of polyurethane, ensuring that users get a comfortable, warm, and cushioned fit.

When hunting in cold weather, hunters want to know that their boots will not get wet. There is no damper on a hunting expedition like wet boots, and with these LaCrosse hunting boots, hunters can rest assured that their feet are in good…shoes.

Muckboots Woodlands ExtremeMuckBoots Woodland Extreme: Cold weather hunting expeditions can be some of the best experiences, but only if you are wearing the best insulated hunting boots available on the market today. The MuckBoots are lightweight hunting boots yet they provide hunters with the perfect amount of insulation for cold winter hunting.

While somewhat pricey, these boots are not only comfortable, they are durable and will ensure warm feet throughout your winter hunting expeditions. This factor alone makes them worth the high price.

Bogs Blaze 1000: If you really want a pair of boots that can withstand very cold weather, such as sub-zero conditions, the Bogs Blaze 1000 are some of the top cold-weather hunting boots available on the market. They have excellent insulation, great treads for muddy terrain, and are very comfortable for being a pair of rubber boots. If you want boots that you are confident will keep you warm through cold-weather hunting, these could be the boots for you.

LaCrosse Game Country BootsLaCrosse 10″ Game Country Boot: THE boots that you want on your feet during snowy weather. They are fully insulated and provide the warmth you need for long days on the hunt. Most hunters love the Hyper-Dri lining as it keeps their feet free of sweat which can be a nuisance while spending hours on your feet. The only thing to watch out for with these beauties is the ankle area. Make sure you get the right fit, otherwise these boots are considered a good buy.

Best Rubber Hunting Boots

Kamik Cold-Weather Boot: Not everyone wants to use rubber hunting boots, but for those who do, the Kamik Cold-Weather Boot work amazingly for cold-weather hunting experiences. Made out of rubber and fabric and with a knee-high length, they’re good boots for keeping out snow and water.

You may find that the sizing is a little off and that they run on the bigger side, but the durability, warmth, and functionality of these boots makes them some of the best rubber hunting boots available on the hunting boot market. They are also highly comfortable boots, which as every hunter knows is extremely important while on long hunting expeditions.

Bogs Classic High Style Break Up Boot: A favorite amongst hunters due to it being a multi-seasonal and highly functional boot. When it comes to spending good money on a boot, you want one that you can depend on through a variety of environments. With a thick sole and waterproof rubber and synthetic material, these knee-high boots can be worn in wet environments or cold weather and provide warmth when needed.

These boots are fantastic for keeping the water out, although they may be lacking when it comes to letting sweat seep out like other boots. Otherwise, they are the ideal hunting boot for a variety of hunting expeditions.

Bogs Bowman BootBogs Bowman Hunting Boots: These beautiful Bogs are made out of rubber with a neoprene lining making them an excellent pair of rubber boots that are waterproofed and that allow your feet to breathe while on the hunt. Anyone who has ever been on a hunt with a pair of waterproof boots that don’t have proper ventilation knows how annoying this can be. Fortunately for hunters, these boots offer the both of best worlds; both ventilation and warmth.

Itasca Men’s Swampwalker 400g Rubber Hunting Boot: These do exactly what a rubber hunting boot should do. As a waterproof boot with great insulation, you can wear this boot through muddy and swampy terrain and still enjoy your hunt without having to worry about wet feet. While they may not be as long-lasting as Bogs hunting rubber boots, they hold up well for a great price.

Best Hunting Boots for the Money

Irish Setter Shadow Trek Boots: If you like hunting throughout the year, you may know that hunting boots cost money. Sometimes you have to invest in more than one pair. One pair of hunting boots that gives you good quality for a good price are the Shadow Trek boots that provide hunters with comfort, waterproof protection, toe guards, light-weight use, and an attractive appearance. With all these comforts and benefits, at $69.00-$194.00 they are a good buy.

Irish Setter Grizzly TrackerIrish Setter Grizzly Tracker Big Game Boots: Also in the Irish Setter brand, these are hard core. Many would consider that they are worth their low price of $63.22-$80.00 for what they offer. These hunting boots are warm and ideal for wet terrains as they are water-proof. Made out of leather and cordura with a rubber sole, you can trust that you will stay warm while hunting in cooler environments, although they aren’t especially high.

Danner Men’s Jackal II: A good boot for their low price of $129.00. With Gore-tex material to keep your feet warm in colder weather and rubber soles, these boots provide hunters with agility while still keeping their feet safe and dry in wet weather. While not perfect for snowy conditions, they are a great pair of hunting boots for many different environments.

Rocky Men’s 8 Inch BroadHead Hunting Boot: When you spend good money on a pair of hunting boots, you want to be sure that you are getting good quality. The Rocky Men’s 8 Inch BroadHead Hunting Boot is not only a great pair of boots, but the price is one that you will appreciate at around $60.00-$180.00. Made out of textile with a rubber sole they are durable boots that are considered to be comfortable for long days out hunting.

One highlight of these boots that you will be sure to love if you will be hunting in the winter is the tract on the soles. Get ready for a hunting expedition with no slipping whatsoever.

Best Hunting Boots Under $100

LaCrosse Men’s Silencer HD Hunting Boot: These can be found for under $100 making them a good buy for what they have to offer. These babies are insulated, made out of leather and fabric with a rubber sole. They offer the perfect match between being water proofed but also provide ventilation for your feet so they don’t sweat while on long hunts. They are some of the best low-priced cold-weather boots out there.

Bogs Eagle Cap BootBogs Eagle Cap Hunting Boots: Conveniently priced as low as $49.99, but the affordability doesn’t take away from the quality of one of the best brands in hunting boots. They are waterproof, very comfortable to wear, and well-ventilated. The only complaint on these boots is that they typically run a bit too small for comfort.

The Wolverine Men’s Sightline High: Nice light-weight boots that do a great job of keeping water and cold out with 200 grams of insulation and all for a low price under $100. Made out of leather and mesh, they are the ideal boots for a variety of terrains. While they aren’t very high, they are affordable and durable boots that can withstand hours and days of hunting.

Rhino 91C99 Camouflage Waterproof Insulated Hunting Boots: For only $69.99 these will provide you with warmth and protection during cold weather hunting or wet conditions. They have a great heel that means comfort during long treks while on the hunt.

While not high-length boots, they provide hunters with insulated protection to ensure that your toes never get cold. They are simpler than the other boots on the list, but if what you are looking for is an affordable pair of boots that will do the job for hunting, then these may be the ones for you.

Best Hunting Boots Under $200

Wolverine Hawthorne Hunting Boots: Can be found for under $200. They are made out of leather and nylon and hunters will appreciate both the insulation and waterproof features of these medium length hunting boots. They work wonders in keeping water out while trekking through wetlands and during cold-weather hunting, although some may consider them to be a bit snug around the ankles. All in all, they are a strong and durable boot for their price.

LaCrosse Alpha Mudlite Snake Hunting Boots: Another pair of trust-worthy boots for under $200. As with almost any hunting boot, you want boots that will provide you with comfort for the long hours, warmth for the cold days, and waterproof material for the wet ones.

These boots also provide a certain amount of protection against snake bites, which makes them an attractive buy for hunters planning expeditions in snake infested environments. While they aren’t considered the most comfortable boots for long days of walking on the hunt, their durability, strength, and water proof ability make them a great buy for under $200.

Golden Retriever 1000 Gr. Hunting BootGold Retriever Men’s 1000 Gr. 4763 Hunting Boot: Just another trust-worthy boot for a low cost under $200. They can be used in a variety of environments and due to their Ultra-insulation can keep your feet warm while on cold weather hunts. These boots are resistant to oils, slips, and abrasions and they have a Dri-Lex ECO footbed cover to keep your feet dry through wet and cold weather. They are without a doubt a sturdy buy for an attractive price.

Irish Setter Men’s Deer Tracker Hunting Boot: Not all hunting expeditions will take place in cold weather, so you may want to avoid wearing insulated boots and find boots like the Irish Setter Deer Tracker for under $200. These light-weight boots will keep your feet feeling dry and fresh while on the hunt for the perfect game.

While these boots are perfect for warm weather hunting season, you may want to invest in some heavy duty socks for cold winters if you aren’t planning on getting an insulated pair as well.

In Conclusion

Everyone is unique and there is no one boot size fits all guide for your shopping, but here you have an extensive list of boots for men and women at affordable costs and for a variety of hunting situations.

Some of the favorites on the list would be the Bogs Bowman Hunting Boots for their warm insulated material that allows your feet to breathe while walking many miles a day. Anyone who has been a long hunt during cold weather knows that sweaty feet don’t feel so great. These beauties are top in reviews and are worth trying on.

The LaCrosse Women’s Alphaburly Pro 15 Real Tree are a favorite for women and are highly suggested when it comes to women’s hunting boots. They are built to last, are warm, and comfortable, which are just a few of the much needed components of a successful hunting boot.

Male hunters seem to love Danner Canadian Hunting Boots for when they want warmth, protection, and durability. These boots are a favorite amongst men for their reliability which is everything they could want on a hunt while maintaining comfort and agility and they look amazing to boot. No pun intended.

Rubber boots are fantastic for wet and swampy areas and for hunts when you may be walking through muddy terrain or there is a chance of rain. Insulated boots are the perfect ones to use for your winter or cold weather hunts when you want to be confident that your feet will stay warm. Treads with grip work well in icy or snowy weather and are also ideal for almost any terrain, ensuring that you don’t fall or trip which would be disastrous when sneaking up on your game.

Take your time and don’t rush shopping for the boots that will join you on many successful hunts. Remember that uncomfortable feet do not a happy hunter make. Whenever possible, try them on before buying and keep these tips for hunting boots in mind.

Mule Deer

Deer Hunting Tips For Beginners and Experts Alike

  • March 22, 2016 /

Mule DeerWhile it would be awesome to bag a stunning buck without any real preparation or effort, hunting typically takes a lot more dedication than that.

Although many hunting skills are best learned through time and experience, following some basic, common sense rules can help even inexperienced hunters. Listen to the techniques and tips given by those who have consistently succeeded in the past, and you’ll soon be on your way to becoming successful yourself.

Also, check out our in depth guide to hunting deer. It covers even more subjects and has information that will do doubt help tremendously this hunting season!

Where to Hunt

If you live in the right area, hunting on your own land is likely your best option. It’s conveniently located, which means that you won’t have to dedicate lots of time to traveling or packing up your gear. Besides this, you also have the ability to prepare it for deer season all year long, and you’ll be able to scout it as frequently as you’d like.

For those who live in town, finding a private spot to hunt can be somewhat difficult. If you’ve got friends who own land, asking around for permission to hunt on their property may pay off. At times, even total strangers may be amicable to letting you use their property. There’s no guarantee that they’ll allow it, however, so this isn’t a reliable way to find a spot to hunt.

Public Hunting Lands

Hunting on public lands is another option, and for many hunters, it’s the best one available. Although some people cringe at the idea of hunting in a potentially congested area, it’s still more than possible to be successful. In fact, nearby hunters who are clumsier or smellier than you may even send deer in your direction, giving you a better hunt than you would’ve had if they were absent.

When you arrive in a public hunting area, don’t be afraid to strike out away from the crowd. Oftentimes, hunters notice the same signs and place their stands along the same trails, resulting in a ridiculously congested area. By heading out to a more remote location, you’ll be able to avoid this sort of craziness.

Traveling to Hunt

If you’re in a poor area for hunting or simply like to travel out of your local neighborhood, then heading out-of-state may be the perfect option for you.
Black-tailed deer are the perfect game if you’ve always dreamed of experiencing the Alaskan frontier. They can also be found in parts of Alaska, as well as in Washington and parts of Oregon and California.

In the Midwestern United States, white-tail deer are plentiful, and their range extends throughout most of the country. However, in popular hunting states such as Kansas, Wisconsin, Illinois, and Iowa you may find that finding public land is rather difficult. In this case, you’ll want to book your hunt with a reputable outfitter.

Want to go west? Although they’re becoming rarer, mule deer in the Rockies and western states make for impressive trophies. Their unique ears and forked racks set them apart from the more common whitetail deer, and they’re larger than their black-tail relatives. The most popular states for hunting these deer are Colorado and Wyoming, although Arizona and Utah are also great options. Drawing a tag for mule deer may take time, however, so don’t expect to make this trip last-minute.

Scouting Your Location

Once you’ve found the land to hunt on, you’ll want to scout the area for signs of deer. You’ll also want to analyze the natural features and terrain to locate the areas deer gravitate towards.

The first step to doing this simply involves reading and interpreting a map of your hunting location. While most people use maps to find roads and rivers, hunters should know how to read and interpret all of the marking used to create the map, as these can lend you solid clues about where deer are likely to be. By identifying potential hot spots before you head out, you’ll save yourself a lot of time and have a solid idea of where to start looking.

Rivers and ponds are good places to start. Ponds attract thirsty game, especially when the weather is hot and dry. If you find a river which is too large to be crossed easily, you might be able to find deer trails following a similar path up to a ford. If you can locate this crossing area, it may be a great place for a stand.

Deer tend to travel over low ground when possible, so search for these areas and markings on a map. Hollows and gullies can be potential trail locations, so pay attention to them.
If you’re in a flat area, these low points might not be as obvious. Look for slight dips and ditches indicated by small contours on your map.

Deer Hunting in the MountainsWhen you’re hunting in a mountainous area, pay attention to saddle-type areas in mountain ridges, as these will attract bucks who don’t wish to cross the ridge at higher points. The area where multiple ridges converge is also a likely location for a trail.

State game agencies often have websites can also provide a wealth of valuable research information for the area and type of deer you’ll be hunting. Other hunters may also provide valuable information, but you’ll need to be careful to separate fact from fiction when listening to their advice.

Scouting in Person

Once you’re in the area, you’ll want to start scouting the land in person to find actual evidence that deer are indeed present.

Even if you aren’t going to begin hunting right away, you’ll want to do your best to eliminate your human scent and move cautiously while scouting. Alerting the deer to your presence can cause them to change their habits and move to different areas, resulting in a frustrating hunt for you later on.

The signs you’ll be searching for include droppings, food sources, bedding areas, rub lines, and scrapes. By locating these you’ll learn a lot about the habits of the local deer, giving you the ability to place your tree stand or blind in the perfect spot.
Taking a map with you while you scout is a wise move, as you’ll be able to mark the locations of your findings as you go. This will help you determine and remember the general area and habits of the deer at a glance.

Finally, don’t forget to keep your newly-obtained knowledge private. Telling others about what you’ve found may seem enjoyable at the time, but giving away your secrets could result in another hunter bagging your prize. Keep your cards close to your chest and save the stories for a later day.

Deer Droppings

Droppings are small and oval, and will be found in tightly clustered piles. Don’t confuse them with rabbit pellets, which are rounder and more scattered.

Fresh droppings look dark, and if they’re less than a day old they may also appear moist and shiny. In time, the color of the droppings fades to a near-tan color.

Larger, mature bucks tend to leave larger piles, so you’ll want to pay attention to the size of the pile.

The consistency of fresh droppings can also give you clues as to the diet, helping you locate food sources. Hard, firm pellets point to a diet of bushes and twigs. Very loose droppings indicate an abundance of fruit in the deer’s diet, while a medium consistency likely means that the diet is made of clover and grasses.

Locating Food Sources

Deer forage for and eat about five pounds of food every day. Their diet consists of a wide variety of vegetation. To find popular feeding areas, you’ll want to pay close attention to the location of food sources, as well as to droppings and hoof prints.

Acorns are well-loved by deer, so take note of areas where they are abundant. In orchards, look for areas with deer sign and leftover pieces of fruit.

Fields are also attractive to deer, so keep your eyes open for cornfields with broken stalks, soybean fields with plants that are missing leaves, and alfalfa with ragged, torn off tops.

When going through bushes and underbrush, look for leaves that have been slightly chewed or are missing entirely.

Finding Bedding Areas

Bedding areas can be a bit difficult for a rookie hunter to spot, but finding them will be very beneficial for your hunt. Look for leaves and grass which have been flattened and crushed.

If you find bedding areas in an optimal feeding location, such as a clover or alfalfa field or abandoned orchard, then the beds are used at night.

Scout around the area until you locate more beds in an area with more cover. If the beds you find are small and medium sized, then they likely belong to does and fawns.

Not sure whether you’ve found large or small beds? The biggest does will make beds about 35 to 40 inches long, so if you’re looking at beds that are this size and smaller, you’ve found the does’ bedding area.

The location of the bucks’ beds will vary depending on the time of year. In the late summer and early fall, the bachelor groups will likely have beds about a quarter mile to three quarters of a mile away from the nighttime beds. These beds will be found in areas with heavy cover.

In the most isolated patches of dense, heavy cover, you may be able to find the bed of a lone buck. This reclusive creature is likely to be a giant, so you’ll want to pay especially close attention to the signs that he leaves.

In late October, when the rut season begins, the bucks will leave their remote bedding areas and stick closer to the does. You’ll want to look for the bed of a single rutting buck just downwind of the does’ daytime bedding area.

Finally, once winter arrives and breeding ends the bucks and does will stay nearby each other, although the beds are typically still segregated by sex.

When you find bedding areas, be sure to leave them undisturbed and keep your distance. If you can pinpoint the location of both night and day beds, then setting up your stand in the area between these beds can give you a great hunting experience. However, messing with the area or leaving your scent can disturb the deer, and leave them feeling less-than secure. If they abandon these beds, the information you’ve learned about their habits will be worthless.

Locating Rub Lines

deer rubThe next type of deer signs you’ll want to be looking for are deer rubs. These are created by bucks in anticipation of the breeding season. The buck will lower his head and rub the top of his head against a tree, creating a bare spot without any bark.

These rubs are typically about 18 inches off the ground, and may often be found in the area between the buck’s bed and feeding areas. If there are any small bushes nearby, you may want to look at them and observe whether or not they have been disturbed. When a buck is trying to shed the velvet off of his antlers he may try to use the bushes to scrape off the velvet.

Once you’ve found the rub, pay attention to which side of the tree is bare of bark–this is the side the buck was facing. Study the ground nearby to find indications of a trail, and follow it to find more rubs. This trail of rubs is known as a rub line, and it marks the buck’s travel route.

To locate rubs made by larger, more mature bucks you’ll want to start looking early if possible. Older bucks will make their first rubs in September. You’ll also want to make sure you’re looking at trees with a diameter of three inches or more.

If you find an area in the buck’s trail where brush narrows the trail and cuts off the ability for him to wander, then you’ve got a great place to place your tree stand.

Finding Scrapes

Deer scrapes are areas where the ground has been scraped bare as a territorial marking sign. Deer will also urinate on the scrape, and often they will also mark any branches above the scrape with their scent using their saliva, foreheads, and antlers.

Scrapes look like clear patches where someone started to rake and gave up after less than a minute of effort. They’re typically about 18 inches large, and are typically in areas without heavy grass. (As this makes it difficult for the buck to scrape the ground clear with his hoofs.)

These signs are only made just before and during mating season, so don’t expect to see them at other times of the year. The earliest scrapes you find are most promising, as older bucks will begin making them sooner than their younger counterparts.

If you find a scrape which doesn’t have any branches above it, it’s likely that the buck wasn’t too serious about what he was doing. Keep searching for scrapes that do have branches a few feet above them, as deer are much more likely to return to these areas.
Most scrapes are made when it’s dark out, often just after the sun sets. Do your best to find a series of scrapes, and then plan to hunt the trail leading up to them.

Deer Attractants

Baiting

For some, the method of scattering food around their tree stands or using automatic feeders is a great way to attract deer. Others use food to get deer to come to their trail cameras.

But before you even begin to consider this method, known as baiting, you should know that it is illegal in many states. Laws vary by state and can be very specific about what is legal or not, so be sure to do your research thoroughly.

Even if it is legal in the state you’re hunting in, many hunters shun the idea as being unethical, cheating, and taking the sport out of hunting. There are many other methods which you can successfully and legally use to attract deer, so you might be better off using one of them.

Food Plots

If you own the property you’ll be hunting on, then planting a plot of food specifically for the deer is a great way to keep them local.

Obviously, this is a method that takes a lot of dedication and long-term effort, so it’s not for everyone. However, if you’re an avid hunter and you want to ensure that you’ll be able to be successful while hunting your property, food plots can definitely pay off.

Corn, winter wheat, soybeans, peas, sorghum, and alfalfa are all good choices for food plots. Choose a food that they won’t otherwise find in your area — planting corn in an area full of cornfields just doesn’t make sense.

Apple trees and the acorns from oak trees can also be great for attracting deer, although they take years to grow. While they might take less effort than other crops, you won’t see any benefits from them for a long time.

Make sure you don’t plant food for the deer too closely to your vegetable garden, as you won’t want deer eating the produce there. Keep the plot away from roads as well, as cars will scare the deer away.

Now, if you’re wondering how this is different than baiting, you should realize that food plots are only designed to keep the deer in the area. Don’t expect to sit nearby and shoot deer as they come to your plot to eat — they’re likely to only visit at night, anyway. Baiting, on the other hand, is used like fish lure–it’s a one-time, deadly treat.

Salt Lick

Another way to keep the deer coming to your area is by creating a salt lick.

If you’re going to use salt blocks, you’ll want to bury them and cover with a few inches of soil, then sprinkle a bit of salt on top so that the deer are able to locate the block. When using loose salt, clear the ground and pour the salt over the soil, then mix the salt and soil together using a stick.

Although it may take a while, it’s almost certain that the smell of salt will eventually attract the deer. This should result in them returning to visit frequently.

When choosing a place for your salt lick, make sure you select an area where an ugly spot isn’t going to be a problem. The salt in the ground will kill nearby plants, and the deer will dig up the salt to lick it, so this isn’t something you’ll want in your front yard.

Deer Lures

If you’re not hunting your own property, then deer lures are definitely your best option. They can be purchased at most sporting goods stores, and come in a variety of scents and types.

The most commonly used scent is deer urine. The scent of a new deer in the area will arouse the curiosity of the local deer population, and they’re likely to come check it out.

Doe scent is especially effective when hunting bucks during the months prior to the peak of breeding season, which is in mid-November. You can apply it to leaves, grass, and trees to attract bucks to your area.

When using lures, you’ll want to be very careful not to get your own scent mingled in with the lures. Instead of bringing deer to you, you could end up scaring them away–and that’s definitely not what you want to accomplish.

Eliminating Scent

As we’ve already mentioned a few times, you really don’t want deer to smell you. Older bucks are likely to be especially wary of human scents.

Deer who smell human scent will likely become skittish. Sensing danger, they’ll change their typical habits to avoid you or the areas you’ve been.

While it’s impossible to completely erase your scent and fool deer, you should be able to avoid their notice until it’s too late.

Scent-Free Laundry

When you’re washing the clothing you’ll be hunting in, you’ll need to make sure that you use a laundry detergent which is totally scent-free. Wash everything you’ll be wearing, including your gloves, socks and other items.

If you can, hang the items to dry outdoors to help eliminate any leftover odors. When you must use a dryer, make sure you don’t use fabric softener and clean out the lint filter beforehand. If you wish to use dryer sheets, find types which are specifically designed for hunters and smell like the outdoors.

Minimize Your Body Scent

Cologne or perfume may be great on most days, but if you’re heading out to scout or hunt you should stay far away from these sorts of things.

Your soap, shampoo, deodorant, and any other products you use need to be totally scent-free.

Before you head out to hunt, avoid eating and drinking items which might taint your breath and give your location away. Alcohol, spicy foods and the like are best avoided.
If you’ve got to pump gas or spend a lot of time in and around your car, be very careful not to get any gas or car fluids on yourself or your clothing.

Eliminate Scent on Your Gear

Your clothing isn’t the only thing you’ll bring with you, so don’t neglect the other gear you’ll be carrying. Your gun, tree stand, bags, boots, and even your phone can carry scents, so you’ll want to be conscious of this fact while handling them.

To get rid of the scents on these items, you can spray them with a neutralizing spray or a cover scent.

Ozone Generators

Many hunters believe that ozone generators are very effective at removing much of their scent and preventing deer from being spooked. If you want to go beyond the typical methods of removing scent, this may be an option for you to look in to.

Watch the Wind

Whitetail deer have about 300 million scent receptors. If the wind is blowing your scent straight towards the deer, then they’re going to pick it up even if you’ve gone to great lengths to minimize and disguise it. Pay close attention to the direction of even the slightest breezes, and be sure to set up your stand or blind downwind of where the deer will be.

For those who own smartphones, there are apps available which may be very helpful for keeping track of exactly how the wind is blowing. Otherwise, simple observation and deduction will provide you with what you need to know.

Tree Stands vs. Blinds

Although tree stands seem to be more popular these days, using a blind can be a great way to hunt as well.

Moving your blind around is much easier than relocating a tree stand, but taking the time to hide it will require a good bit of time. If you’ve got talent and know how to camouflage a blind well, then this won’t be a big deal–but if you’re horrible at hiding it, then a tree stand is probably a far better option, as stands don’t require hiding like blinds do.

Blinds tend to be quite a bit more comfortable. The small space available on stands makes it difficult to stay in place for more than a few hours, but blinds allow you to move around a stretch a bit more.

Hunters tend to disagree on whether or not a blind or a stand gives you the best amount of scent control. With a blind, you’re able to shelter yourself from the wind more. Tree stands, however, put you and your scent on a higher plane.

The height of a tree stand gives you a better vantage point, allowing you to see much more of the surrounding area. Because you have a good vantage point, they’re also more forgiving in their placement. You can get away with placing your stand in areas where a blind wouldn’t work at all.

Many bow hunters firmly believe that a stand is crucial to success with a bow, and argue that hunting from the ground is nearly impossible.

If you have the ability, investing in both a stand and blind can be beneficial for a serious hunter. However, if you can only choose one then choose the option which suits you best and learn the skills necessary for using it successfully.

Staying Safe

Before you begin hunting, it’s important to make sure that both you and other people stay safe. Safety rules may seem boring to some. However, they actually ensure that hunting remains a sport rather than becoming a life-threatening experience.

Weapon Safety

Some of the most important safety rules to remember are those on gun safety. Even if you’re using a bow, many of the same rules still apply.

Always be completely certain of your target before you shoot. Don’t ever send a bullet or arrow flying simply because you saw some motion — that’s how people end up shooting their friends and fellow hunters.

Always make sure that your gun or bow is in optimal working condition. Clean your firearms regularly.

When Using a Tree Stand

If you’re using a tree stand to hunt, remember that the height poses another source of danger. While staying safe may seem easy at first, your muscles can become stiff after hours of inactivity, and poor weather conditions can make it even less safe.

If you’re hunting from an elevated tree stand then you need to be sure to always use your safety harness. Be sure you know how to set up your stand properly and safely. If you’ve never used it before, then practicing before you head out is a good idea. Store all of the components together so that you don’t forget vital parts or pieces.

Communicate with Others

Finally, remember that even if you take every possible precaution accidents can still happen. If you’re going to head out alone, it’s especially important to let others know where you’re planning to go and when you’ll be back.

Most cell phone services provide coverage maps on their websites. Checking to see if you’re likely to have coverage is a good idea, and you should let others know beforehand if it’s likely that you’ll be unable to contact them while hunting.

If you’re headed into an area which is unfamiliar or which is likely to have dangerous wildlife or terrain, make sure you prepare for the unexpected beforehand. Take any safety equipment you may need, and brush up on your knowledge of first-aid.

How to Hunt Deer in 2017

  • March 18, 2016 /

Deer Hunting GuideDeer hunting is a time honored tradition in American culture. It is a way to feed your family higher quality protein than you could ever find in a store. It is a thrilling adventure and sport, filled with adrenaline rushes and brutally long hikes carrying heavy packs. It is a way to connect with nature, and our more primal side. It’s easy to see why so many individuals in the US go out each year in pursuit of a trophy buck or a full freezer (or, more likely, both).

Many people these days aren’t raised as hunters. This guide is a great starting point for anyone that is interested in learning how to hunt deer. It will go over everything from equipment, to spotting, to legalities and even what to do after a successful hunt. Whether you are a novice or a seasoned hunter, there is something here for you. It is long and in depth, so use the table of contents to jump around easily to the topics that you most want to learn about.

Good luck, and we’ll see you in the field!

Preparation

Preparation is without a doubt the most important aspect of becoming a successful deer hunter. If you aren’t fully prepared for any circumstances that could pop up, you’ll find yourself in big trouble if the worst happens. What if you are stuck out in the cold without survival gear? What if you forgot your deer tag and get caught by the authorities? Or what if you don’t have the right weapon and you can’t make a clean kill? There are way too many potential circumstances to list, so I won’t get into them all. Moral of the story is, be prepared for anything when deer hunting.

This section covers some of the biggest things you need to do to get prepared. Read over it carefully, and make sure that you have thought of all the things you may need for your specific circumstances. If you’re going to be using an ATV, do you have extra gas for it? If you are hiking through snow, do you have waterproof boots that won’t slip when you walk? There are an infinite amount of possibilities, so make sure you’re prepared for all of them properly.

Getting Legal

The absolute number one thing you need to do before anything else when getting ready for the upcoming deer hunting season is making sure you are totally legal. If you don’t, you could end up in jail for poaching. So get your valid hunting license first. In some cases with most states, you’ll have to take a class before getting the license.

Once you get your license, you may need to get a tag. Again, this varies by state, but it is extremely important that you get one that is for the species of deer you want, the sex of deer you intend to hunt, and for the right area. You may have to put in for a lottery in order to draw the right to buy a tag. In my home state of Idaho, for instance, there are certain areas where you can buy a “general” tag that allows you to hunt for one male deer. However, there are certain areas, which are typically much more desirable to hunt in, where you have to put in and win a lottery to be able to hunt there.

If you want to find out more details about the legal aspects of hunting deer in your state, first check out the homepage of we have articles here covering every state.

From there, check out your state’s government’s website, they will have an entire section (and sometimes a separate website) dedicated to hunting laws.

Species Information

Knowing what you are hunting is one of the most important aspects of deer hunting. There are big differences between the species that you need to be aware of. Not only will it help to know the behaviors and habitat of the species you are hunting, but it will also keep you out of potential legal trouble. If you have a “whitetail only” tag and you shoot a mule deer, you could be faced with poaching charges.

Here are rundowns on four of the most common deer species to hunt in the lower 48 states:

Whitetail Deer:

The whitetail is one of the most common deer to hunt in the United States. It has abundant populations in many different areas.

Whitetail DeerDistinctive in its appearance, the whitetail deer is the species from which all sub-species originate. Its coat changes with the seasons. During the early spring to late summer their coat is red/brown to deep red. This changes to a coal/gray color from early fall through the winter season. Just like its name, its one unique feature is the whitetail underside. The species raises this as a warning of danger.

Population locations depend primarily on their eating habits. Although they will eat mice and birds, this is rare. Whitetails are primarily herbivorous and feed on clover, mushrooms, grasses and hay. They will eat unprotected animal feed, gardens and agricultural growth as well as personal pet food. Their steady foraging will damage areas if the population is not controlled.

Understanding whitetail deer patterns means remembering they go where an abundance of food supply is available, they move to secure locations, and breeding factors. The seasonal movement of the whitetail deer species begins during the fall with the majority of the species conducting their movement at dusk and early morning. The male (buck) lays low during this time while the female (doe) locates a secure location. The feeding range, where food is available, usually consists of a one-mile radius.

The average size of this species varies depending on its sex and location. Male whitetails can weigh in between 100 lbs. to 350 lbs. Average weight is between 80 and 135 lbs. The female primarily is smaller and weighs in at an average of 125 lbs. The male’s antlers regrow annually with the growth period most predominant from spring through early winter. At this point, the male will then shed the antlers. Depending on the male’s access to an abundant feeding ground, the age of the deer, and time of year, they can potentially grow eight-point antler racks.

The Live Outdoors website lists whitetail deer rankings for the five optimal hunting areas in the United States. It is important to state that these rankings change from year to year as the deer population changes from region to region. Colorado takes the number one spot with Iowa taking second place. Although it is not in the United States – Alberta, Canada is third, followed by Arizona fourth and Texas taking fifth.

There are over seventeen sub-species of the whitetail deer hunted in the United States. This whitetail deer information may slightly change depending on climate conditions. Out of the seventeen, the largest are the Northern Woodland, the Kansas, the Dakota, the Texas, the Northwest species, and the Avery Island whitetail. Average size sub-species include the South Carolina (Hilton Head and Hunting Island species), the Blackbeard Island, Florida whitetail, and Florida Coastal.

The smallest of the seventeen sub species are the Florida Key-deer with Bull’s Island being small and limited, as well as the Carmen Mountain, the Arizona and Columbian.

The most popular hunted species all other sub-species derive from is the Virginian whitetail deer. Its range covers over ten states and is considered a good size deer with large antler growth.

Mule Deer:

Mule deer are widely distributed throughout western North America. They can be found from north central Canada, west to southeast Alaska, all along the Pacific coast, down to Baja, and from Baja west to the Texas panhandle.

Mule deer are named for their large mule-like ears. Even though their ear canals are roughly the same size as that of humans, their ears can be nine inches in length. They can also swivel their ears 360 degrees to listen for predators. The mule deer can hear a much larger range of frequencies than humans can, making this one very nervous animal.

Mule DeerAnother feature that differentiates the mule deer from other deer species is that their tail set is downward, unlike the whitetail deer which holds its tail upright. Another characteristic of the mule deer is the bounding gait they exhibit, called stotting. When not walking, stotting or loping, a Mule deer is capable of running 40 mph for several miles before stopping, a good asset to possess when you consider mule deer are the number one prey of mountain lions. Mountain lions depend so heavily on the mule deer for food that the mountain lion’s jaw has evolved over time to fit the throat and windpipe of deer in order to hasten their kill.

The life span of the mule deer in the wild is about ten years. They are susceptible to a host of diseases and parasites such as Chronic Wasting Disease, Hoof and Mouth, plus many bacterial infections. Tough winters can also decimate herd populations in higher elevations. Normally, the first good snowfall will trigger the mule deer migration from the high mountains down to their winter range. Failure to move lower before heavy snow will leave them snowbound and starving.

Mule deer does can birth from one to four fawns in late spring. Both sexes tend to browse and band together as the snow and ice retreat. The deer head back to higher elevations prior to the onset of summer. The bucks’ antlers shed in winter and by spring are quickly growing back as food sources become more available. It is during this time that the antlers are referred to as being “in velvet” due to the soft membranes covering the boney growths.

By late summer, mule deer segregate according to gender. Younger bucks group together in bands called bastards, while the older, more experienced bucks go alone, waiting for the rut to begin.

Cooling weather appears to be the mechanism by which nature tells the mule deer it’s time again to breed. The bucks spar with brush and tree limbs, honing their fighting skills while marking their territories. The larger bucks become stirred by the sounds of rattling antlers and move in from their haunts to do battle for the right to breed.

Blacktail Deer:

Blacktail deer inhabit the western reaches of North America from British Columbia into California along the coast and some distance inland.

Dan Gibson, a blacktail deer information expert, says the deer can be found as much as 100 miles from the coast. While they may range further inland, they grow increasingly rare as the distance from the ocean increases.

Blacktail deer feedingThe most recent genetic studies show the blacktail deer is a subspecies of mule deer.

Most trophy-class blacktails are in the 140-pound range. While 200-pounders have been killed, they are very rare. Males are larger than the females when fully mature. Young deer can be the same size. Trophies are typically mature deer. Young animals have not had time to get full expression of their antlers. Blacktail bucks shed their antlers every year and grow a new set by fall. While also extremely rare, female blacktail can have antlers.

The blacktail deer is crepuscular, active in the twilight hours of early morning and late evening, but can be found foraging any at time of the day or night. They prefer the edge of open areas and thick woods as this is where their preferred food is commonly found.

The blacktail is a browser. It will feed briefly in one place and move on, unless it has a compelling reason to stay in one spot. They eat a wide variety of plants, preferring tender green plants if at all possible. The can eat Douglas fir, Organ yew and western cedar if necessary. Food plots of native vegetation and domesticated peas, beans and grasses will attract these animals. Baiting these deer can cause them to concentrate in one area and stay at a feeding station for a while.

The deer feed heavily in spring and summer to build up fat reserves for the winter. Starvation is a major cause of death among these animals.

During the rut, breeding season, big males will be active almost constantly, giving little time to feeding and sleeping. The bucks are much less wary during the rut and most trophy-class animals are killed at this time. Bucks will lose weight during the breeding period. The rut is at a maximum in November.

Hunting regulations vary by state and province. In parts of California a bow-only season opens in July. In other
places, the hunt does not begin until September or October. Hunting regulations also vary as to what antler-size and gender animals can be killed.

Successful hunters will find movement patterns for the deer in an area. They will learn where the deer feed and where they bed down. Putting a hunting stand between these two locations allows a hunter to kill a blacktail on the way to bed down in the morning or on the way to feed in the evening. In both cases, the hunter should be in the stand well before he expects to see deer.

Hunting pressure will turn these animals completely nocturnal, even during the rut.

California produces the most record book bucks, but the very biggest come from the northern reaches of the blacktail’s territory.

Coues Deer:

Named after Dr. Elliot Couse, the naturalist and ornithologist who discovered them, Couse deer are a diminutive subspecies of whitetail deer. Nicknamed the “grey ghost” for their seemingly supernatural ability to appear and vanish like smoke, the elusive little deer is one of the most challenging species of all North American big game animals.

Volumes have been written about Coues deer; however, much of the available Coues whitetail deer information is incomplete or inaccurate. Commonly mispronounced either “cows” or “coos,” Couse is properly spoken “kouse,” as in replacing the “h” in house with a “k.”

Couse deer have one of the most restricted ranges of all species of whitetail deer. Inhabiting the mountainous regions of the desert southwest of the United States and the mountains of northern Mexico, Couse deer are not found in low-lying valleys like their larger cousins of the northern United States. Living at elevations from 3,000 to 10,000 feet, Couse deer primarily inhabit southwest New Mexico, south and central Arizona, California along the Arizona border and almost all of Sonora, Mexico.

Coues deer do not migrate and have a limited individual home range of less than 1,000 acres. During the morning hours Couse whitetails are found feeding on southern hillsides and then bedded during the day, under trees or in tall grass on north facing hillsides in the summer months and southern facing slopes during the winter.

Aside from their smaller physical size, Coues whitetails are no different from their larger relatives. Larger only than the key whitetail deer found in the Florida Keys, Coues whitetails stand between 24 and 32 inches high at the shoulder. Male deer weigh an average of 125 pounds with the does averaging approximately 80 pounds.

Coues whitetail antlers have the same configuration as other whitetails, with points typically growing upwards off one long main beam; females do not have antlers. Matching their smaller body sizes, Coues deer antlers are also much smaller than standard size whitetails with the largest antlers on record scoring 144 1/8 points, compared to the overall world record whitetail with an antler score of 213 5/8 points.

Coues deer forage in thickets of acacia, manzanita, mesquite and scrub oak. The deer’s diet also includes the fruit of cacti, Ceanothus, mountain mahogany and various forbs and grasses.

In the U.S., only Arizona and New Mexico hold hunting seasons for Couse deer. Because of the terrain they inhabit, a combination of traditional whitetail hunting methods and western hunting techniques used for mule deer and elk work best when pursuing Coues whitetails.

During morning and evening hours, when deer are feeding, setting up at the top of a south facing slope and glassing below can be highly productive. During midday, when deer are bedded, glassing with binoculars or spotting scope and stocking with range is the best option. Because most of the west is so arid, setting up by an active watering hole is highly productive. Unlike other species of whitetails, Coues deer are generally vocal throughout the day, making them susceptible to calling into range with snort and grunt calls. During the rut rattling antlers can be effective.

If seeking further Coues whitetail deer information, consult credible sources such as state fish and game departments.

What Weapon Will You Use?

After you’ve done some research, and before you get your tag, you need to decide on what kind of weapon you will use to hunt deer. This decision will depend on several different factors.

The first question to ask yourself is what are you comfortable with? Did you grow up around guns? Are you an ace archer? Whatever weapon you choose, you need to make sure you are more than fully comfortable with it.

Below are descriptions of five of the most common weapon types to use when deer hunting.

Rifle

Scope mounted on a rifleRifle hunting is by far the most common, and for good reason. Rifles are powerful, relatively simple to use and maintain, and can be had for a low investment. They allow you to kill deer from long ranges, even beyond 500 yards if you are a very good shot and have a nice rifle. Even a novice hunter with a small amount of time spent on the range practicing can kill a deer from several hundred yards away with a rifle. This makes them an ideal hunting weapon for many.

If you are going to use a rifle, then picking the right rifle is a critical decision to make. There are many different choices out there, ranging from inexpensive packages to rifles that run thousands even without optics. Choosing the right rifle will come down to these things:

Pick a Caliber

The first step on picking your first (or next) deer rifle is to pick the right caliber to shoot out of your gun. This is the most crucial step of the process. Take the following into consideration when you pick yours:

  • Are you willing to deal with kick? If you are, then you may want a meatier caliber (such as a 300 WSM or 7mm magnum). If not, pick something like a 270 Winchester or 243 Winchester.
  • Are you only hunting deer with this rifle? If you’re also hunting other, larger game (such as elk), then choose a caliber that will also handle that. If you want to do some varmint shooting, choose something small, fast, and highly accurate.
  • Is cost a consideration? If so, will you be reloading? Reloading makes things cheaper, and shooting the more expensive calibers (such as the short magnums) is much more cost effective if reloading.

Pick the caliber that fits you best based on those three conditions. I, personally, shoot a 270 WSM, but this is also my elk rifle. If it wasn’t for that, I’d shoot a 243.

Pick a Brand and Model

Next you have to pick the brand and model that you want to buy. There are many different options out there. To pick, weigh in these questions:

  • Do you want a wooden or synthetic stock?
  • How much weight do you want to pack around?
  • Are you attached to a particular brand?
  • And above all, how much are you willing to spend?

I am a big Remington fan, so my deer rifle is a Remington 700 SPS, which I think is a great all around gun for around $500 new. This is a very reasonable price for the gun you get. If I was willing to spend more money, I would get either a 700 Sendero, or one of the new Tikka tactical rifles.

Used or New?

Then you must answer the final question, used or new? There is definitely validity to both sides of that debate. If you want to break in the rifle yourself and know every detail of every part of that rifle’s life, then buy new. That’s what I typically choose to do. If you don’t care so much about that and want to shave some cost off of an expensive purchase, then buy used, just make sure that you buy from someone that you trust.

Buying a rifle for this year’s deer hunting season that you both enjoy shooting and is of good quality, will ensure that you only have to make this difficult decision once. It can be hard to pick the right rifle, but I hope that the advice above has helped you look at what counts in a rifle.

Scopes

Once you have your rifle you need to get a scope to mount on it. There are an innumerable amount of options out there, so do some shopping. Prices vary from $50 to $2000. The main difference will be the quality of optics, meaning the amount of light they let in and the clarity of the glass.

There are several things you should consider when you purchase a deer hunting scope. Get one that is simple. All the tactical knobs and fancy adjustment dials will do you no good in the field unless you are shooting from very long range. A simple reticle is best, as it provides you the most unencumbered view. There is much debate as to the best amount of zoom for a hunting scope. Most hunters, including myself, use a 3 – 9 power. Anything less than that isn’t enough for a long shot, and anything more is overkill for 95% of the shots you’ll take on deer in the
field. A 40mm lens is the most common, and works very well. If you would like a little bit more light coming through, a 50mm lens is a great option, but it will cost you slightly more. Scopes in general are more about personal preference than anything else. Whatever you can see through well that is in your price range is what you should use.

For a great resource on buying rifle scopes, check out OpticsDen.com.

Bow

Bow Hunting SilhouetteThe next most common type of weapon for deer hunting is the bow. Archery hunting requires much more skill and practice then simple rifle hunting. This is both a deterrent, and for more many a huge incentive, seeing as it provides an extra challenge. In order to kill a deer with a bow, you will need to be very close, within around 50 yards, and often closer.

If you are going to hunt with a bow, you will need to first invest in quality equipment. Do some research and find a quality bow that will fit you well. Go to a big outfitter and find out what your draw length is, and what you can pull back for a draw weight. Once you’ve figured that out, decide what kind of bow you want to get.

The most common type for modern hunters is the compound bow. They look very complicated, but they are definitely more powerful and lethal than any other option. They are also much easier to be accurate with, which can be a big factor if you are just starting out in archery. Make sure you learn about all the accessories, as these are very important with a compound bow. Also make sure you learn the ins and outs of your particular model.

If you want to be more traditional, then you can get an old school long bow. They have no sights, can be very difficult to pull back and hold steady compared to a long bow, but many love them from a traditional sense.

If you want something of a compromise, you can get a recurve bow. They are similar to a long bow, but they have curves at the top and bottom, making the bow more powerful and efficient. They also usually have sights for aiming and rests that create less drag on the arrow.

Once you have the bow you want, and some broad head arrows, you should practice shooting quite a bit. It takes serious skill to shoot well, and a bow isn’t nearly as effective as a rifle. If you don’t hit the deer in the exact right spot, you may be blood trailing it quite a distance and you may never find it. It is well worth taking the time to practice if you are going to bow hunt.

Bow hunting also requires different hunting tactics than rifle. For the most part, bow hunters sit in stands at game trails and other areas where deer are likely to come by. Keep that in mind when deciding what kind of weapon you will hunt deer with.

Shotgun

If you think rifle hunting is too easy and bow hunting too difficult, then this may be your perfect option. Shotguns are firearms, but they lack the range and precision of a rifle. Shotguns are most often associated with bird hunting. However, if you load them up with slugs, they become very effective deer guns. If you do choose to hunt with a shotgun, make sure you check the laws in your area. In some states there is an entirely separate season for shotgun hunters.

A shotgun is typically cheaper than a rifle seeing as you wouldn’t normally buy a scope. Shotguns with slugs have a range of around 100 yards, 150 if you have an ideal setup, so there is no real need for the magnification of a scope. This does save money, and can add an increased challenge to your hunt.

Muzzleloaders

An alternative, yet similar method to the shotgun is muzzleloader hunting. Again, make sure you check with your states laws first. A muzzleloader is what it sounds like, a gun that you load from the muzzle. That means you only get one shot at a deer, as reloading takes quite some time. The strategies you use will be similar to hunting with a bow or a shotgun; the main difference will be that there is almost no chance for a second shot.

Crossbows

The last weapon on this list is the crossbow. In many respects, it is similar to the last two weapons, so I’ll be brief. Again, check the legality, and know that you may not get a second shot with this type of weapon. However, it can be an effective way to deer hunt.

The Essential Equipment

According to some hunters, the only essential deer hunting equipment is a rifle and ammunition. However, if you want to have a safe and successful hunt, there are a number of pieces of gear that can help substantially. Here is a look at some of the most important equipment for any successful deer hunt.

Proper Clothing

It may seem obvious, but many hunters don’t pay nearly enough attention to the clothing they wear in the field. The first and most important consideration is the weather. Planning equipment for a hunt should begin with a survey of the local climate. In particular, attention should be paid to the average temperature for the time of year, typical chances of rain or other inclement weather and advanced forecasts if available.

When hunting in a location where cold weather is expected, dressing in layers is essential. An excellent first layer is a pair of long underwear. Even when cold weather is not expected, layering can be beneficial because it allows a hunter to add or remove layers to remain comfortable regardless of the conditions. While hunting in areas of excessive heat, clothing should be lightweight, loose-fitting and breathable. Clothing that wicks sweat away from the skin is also a good choice. Some such clothing has the added benefit of neutralizing the smell from sweat, reducing the chance of being detected by deer or other animals.

Because deer have extraordinarily sensitive hearing, all clothing should be made from material that makes as little noise as possible while moving. Natural fibers such as wool and cotton are generally the best choice, while materials such as nylon and denim should be avoided. Wool is typically the best overall choice for clothing because it is effective at regulating temperature in both warm and cold climates, it performs well in wet conditions and, despite taking longer to dry, it often feels drier on the skin than other materials.

The final consideration for clothing is a quality pair of boots. Because each individual is different, there is no right or wrong answer here. The important thing is to find a pair of boots that is comfortable to wear for long distances. A great test is to wear the boots on a long hike. After the hike, there should be little or no foot discomfort. The preferred material is Gore-Tex since it helps protect the feet from water and snow.

Knives

hunting knivesAlthough many hunters can and do get by with just one knife, carrying two knives can prove very useful. While one blade can be used for field dressing deer, the other should be better suited for survival and other tasks hunters may be faced with. For field dressing, the ideal knife is thin easily maneuvered. Some people even prefer very small knives for field dressing, despite the large hunting knife stereotype. While fixed blades are sturdier, a folding blade design will also work well and be safer and more convenient to carry. Here is a resource with some great folding knife recommendations.

The second, larger knife should have a blade of at least four inches and be of fixed-blade design. This knife can be used for cutting rope, chopping wood, butchering game animals and a variety of other tasks. Hunters must be prepared to survive in the woods should they get lost or blocked in by weather, and a large knife is perhaps the best survival tool available.

There are many knives out there that can fill both requirements, which will mean less to carry.

Binoculars

Hunting can only be successful if the game is able to be seen, and to that end a good set of optics is crucial. Because of the extreme sensitivity and fickle nature of deer, being able to see them from great distances can be a huge advantage. When choosing optics, low-light performance is perhaps the most important consideration. Deer tend to be most active at dusk and dawn, so hunter’s optics must perform well in these conditions. Binoculars with 42-50mm objective lenses are a popular choice for this application. If you want to find the best pair of binoculars to purchase for hunting, check out the guide on OpticsDen.com.

Magnification depends upon the area being hunted. When cover is ample or sight lines are frequently limited, a lower magnification power with a wider field of view is best suited for the job. For open, rugged areas with little cover, a higher magnification is necessary. Magnification power greater than ten is difficult to hold steady without the use of a tripod, however, so a balance must be struck between image quality and magnification power.

Additional Supplies

The final pieces of essential deer hunting equipment are several items that can be carried in a fanny pack or other small carrying space. These items are intended to be useful not only for the hunt, but also for survival if it should become necessary. The first item is a 50-foot length of parachute cord. This cord is small, lightweight and incredibly strong. It is strong enough to hang a deer, and it can also be taken apart to access its several smaller component cords. These smaller cords can be used for shelter construction, traps and many other things.

A GPS unit is an excellent addition to the kit and should be included if possible, though a functioning compass is a suitable substitute. A small map of the hunting area should be included as well. Safety and survival equipment should include a small first aid kit, snake bite kits if necessary, odorless insect repellant, water purification tablets, a space blanket, cable saw and a small flashlight. Finally, some means of starting a fire should also be included. There are a number of options for this, including lighters, matches, and chemical fire starters. Perhaps the most reliable option, however, is a flint fire starter.

Ultimately, there is an almost endless variety of equipment and supplies that can improve the hunting experience and make it safer. There is rarely a single correct choice, and it depends greatly on the needs and abilities of the hunter. One hunter’s essential deer hunting equipment may be unnecessary to another. However, the equipment items listed above are perhaps the most important pieces to ensure a safe and successful deer hunt in nearly any location.

Scouting for Deer

Deer scouting techniques are as varied as are species of deer and the habitats in which they live. For instance, scouting for mule deer in the thick chaparral of southwest Texas, where visibility and accessibility are nearly zero at ground level, is going to require a different approach than scouting for mule deer in canyon country where you can see from horizon to horizon.

Obviously, in thick chaparral, deer scouting techniques will require you to find a vantage point where you can view a source of attraction for the deer to come to, such as food or water. This is why blinds on tall telescoping scissors are so popular for hunters in this part of the country.

Check first with your state’s hunting regulations before you put out deer attractants like salt blocks or feed. Doing so is strictly prohibited in many jurisdictions and you could find yourself on the wrong side of the law.

The best possible deer scouting technique is the actual time you spend in the field prior to deer season, walking the fields, observing the woods, looking for deer and their signs. Where the buck rubs are located, a buck has clearly marked out his territory, and the higher the rub, the bigger the buck. Look for deer tracks around the rub and on the game trails. If you have a game camera, this could be an ideal place to set it up. If you don’t have a game cam, consider raking an area of soft ground on the game trail or near a water tank and return frequently to see if deer are using it. Water tanks and preferred food sources are also ideal locations for game cams.

Game cams can be your eyes and even ears for your deer scouting techniques out in the field when you can’t be there. The cost of a good, inexpensive game cam starts at around $120.00. At that price, you basically get a motion sensor and maybe a 2.5 megapixel digital camera in one. But it doesn’t cost much more to upgrade to a better unit. Today’s top shelf game cams are not much different from the hi-tech surveillance cameras used in high crime areas in the city. Costs of the better units can run $500 or more. These cams can come equipped with microphones and broadband Internet connections so you can see the video in real time. Manufacturers have made these cameras incredibly stealthy, too, by making them remarkably quiet and nearly invisible to game. LED lighting, infrared and night vision are replacing strobe flashes because the flashes scare away game. Even the cheaper game cam models come with expandable memory and auxiliary power jacks, allowing the deer scout to leave the camera unattended much longer in the field.

For those deer scouts unfamiliar with the game cam, start with a more affordable unit, but one that allows a memory card and has an auxiliary power jack. Nothing can be more frustrating than getting back out to the field after setting the camera up, only to find the batteries died at some point or the memory is full and you don’t have any idea what great pictures you may have lost. Having more than one game cam is also a good idea. The effective field of vision for game cams is only about sixty to eighty feet in daylight, and much less at night. Why monitor only one area if you can afford to monitor several? It’s also a very good idea to get familiar with your game cam around the home, long before you burn your precious time and fuel heading out to the woods with a camera you know nothing about. Read the manual and know the settings so you won’t be disappointed once you have set it up in the field.

A good deer scout knows the game he’s scouting. He knows the deer’s sense of smell could be a thousand times better than his own. Before heading to the field to scout, bathe with odorless soap. Wash your cloths in odorless detergent and don’t smoke or use any aftershave or scented antiperspirant. Be aware of the wind directions in the field and try to stay downwind of where you hope to see deer.

Keep in mind that a deer’s vision is poor when it comes to discerning unmoving objects, but its vision does allows it to see movement at a great distance. Once a vantage point is found, be still, very still. If possible, move only your eyes and don’t raise your binoculars quickly if you need to use them. If standing, be motionless against an object like a tree, and keep very quiet. Don’t stand with your legs apart, keep them together. Your legs apart look like an inverted V, and this shape very rarely appears in nature. Deer are color blind, so wearing camouflage in the field is not much of a benefit. Camouflage is even illegal to wear in some states and you may be required instead to wear a certain amount of hunter orange.

Before deer scouting anywhere, show friends or family a map of where you plan to go, and tell them when you will return. Prepare for foul weather with adequate clothing and make certain ahead of time that your vehicle is up to the task and the terrain. Take a GPS along and know how to use it in advance. The GPS will also come in handy for flagging any spots where deer activity is observed. Take enough food and water to last beyond the number of days you plan to be gone. Pay your cell phone bill, and make sure the batteries are fully charged. Take a flashlight, spare batteries and lighters.

On the Hunt

Now that you’re prepared for your deer hunt, it’s time to learn what to do when you get out there. Deer hunting can be very exciting, with some tense action when you do spot deer, but it also can be dangerous. Make sure you read the chapter on weapon safety, regardless of how experienced you are with guns. It is never harmful to get a reminder.

Hunting is a skill, so read the tips provided in that section of the book. However, know that to be a successful hunter, you will need practice and experience. No matter how much you read, you need some in the field experience. I highly recommend you go with an experienced hunter the first time you go out. It will help you tremendously.

Weapon Safety

Weapon safety is the absolute most important thing to learn when getting started in the hunting world. Some meat in the freezer isn’t worth accidentally putting a bullet through your own leg. Read over these basic weapon safety rules regardless of whatever weapon you choose to hunt with; they apply to anything.

  • Always keep your weapon pointed in a safe direction. No matter what you’re doing, even if you’re walking with it and it’s hard to avoid, always point it somewhere safe.
  • Always keep your finger off the trigger until ready to shoot. Even if your finger is just barely touching the trigger of your gun, it still poses potential danger for a misfire.
  • Keep your weapon unloaded until ready to use. Especially during transport, there is no need to keep a weapon loaded until you are actually about to use it.
  • Always treat the weapon as if it is loaded. This will help you establish good safety habits, and your weapon will never endanger another.
  • Know how to use your weapon completely and safely. Know the ins and outs of the weapon so that if something stops working, you know exactly what it is and how to take care of it safely.

These five rules are a great foundation to build up good weapon safety habits. If you want to learn more about it (and you should), here is a great resource:

NRA Gun Safety Rules

Techniques

Below are six of the most common deer hunting techniques. When deciding which one to use, think about where you will be hunting, and the habits and movements of the deer you’ve been spotting.

Stand Hunting

As deer possess extraordinarily sharp senses of smell and hearing, locating a likely looking ambush spot and then letting the deer come to you is perhaps the most productive of all basic deer hunting techniques. Working in all types of cover, from thick brush to open meadows and parks, stand hunting is effective for all deer species. Stand hunting works especially well when the woods are dry and noisy, or if the hunter is unfamiliar with the territory or terrain.

For stand hunting to be productive it is necessary to locate an area where there are obvious signs of deer activity. Look for spots where two or more trails converge, with fresh hoof prints along both trails. Locate feeding areas, such as apple orchards, crop fields and oak trees. During the rut, or breeding season, look for places where a buck has marked his territory by making scrapes, patches where the deer has dug down to the bare earth with its hoofs, or rubs, spots on trees where the buck has removed the bark with its antlers. Additionally, if water is scarce in an area, a water hole can be a productive place to wait. Locating two or more indicators in the same area is a sign of an ideal place to post a stand.

Select a stand location that offers a good vantage point, such as on a hill overlooking the area deer are expected to be moving through. Sit up against a tree or make a ground blind out of natural materials, such as dead tree limbs, to breakup your outline. Tree stands can be highly productive, providing a superior vantage point of the surrounding area and will keep human scent off the ground. However, use caution as many hunters are seriously injured every year by falling from tree stands; be sure to use a safety harness at all times when climbing and in a tree stand.

Still Hunting

Requiring the patience of Job to be successfully executed, still hunting can be very effective. Still hunting requires moving through the woods at a slow and methodical pace. The goal in still hunting is to move slowly enough so that the hunter sees the deer before the deer spots the hunter. However, the problem with still hunting is that most hunters become impatient and begin moving too fast, spooking the deer before they get close enough for a shot.

Ideally, still hunting is done by taking three very quiet and slow steps, avoiding any ground debris or overhanging branches that have the potential of making any sound whatsoever. The area is then looked over inch by inch, preferably with binoculars, looking for any signs of deer, before taking another three steps.

Spotting and Stalking

Best suited to open areas where deer can be seen at a distance, spotting and stalking is exactly as it sounds. Setting up on a vantage point that provides a good view, the hunter thoroughly examines the terrain with binoculars or a spotting scope. When spotting, a hunter must look for anything that could give away the deer’s presence, such as the glint of light off an antler or eyeball. A highly successful spotting technique is to look for birds on the ground. As birds are obviously smaller than deer, any deer will stand out like a sore thumb.

Once a deer is spotted a stalking route must be carefully planned out to keep the hunter hidden while approaching within range, taking advantage of all available cover such as ravines, dry washes, crop fields and stands of timber. Spotting and stalking is highly effective during midday hours, when animals are bedded. Additionally, spotting deer in the morning, while they are on the move, and waiting for the animals to bed down for the day can also be a highly productive strategy.

Tracking

A combination of spotting and stalking and still hunting, there are two methods of tracking. The first involves cutting a fresh set of tracks and slowly following them, in still-hunting mode, until the deer is found. The second tracking technique requires a level of physical fitness that few hunters possess. Once a set of tracks is discovered, the hunter literally starts running on the trail until the deer is caught up with. The hunter then gives the deer 15 to 20 minutes to settle down and then begins still hunting. Tacking works best after a new snowfall or rain when the ground is soft and quiet.

Drive Hunting

Drive hunting requires a group of hunters and a small section of land. The majority of the hunters, known as the drivers, take up positions forming a semi-circle around one end of the targeted area. The other hunters, generally two to four depending on the size of the group and the plot of land being driven, are called the standers or blockers. The standers take up positions at the far end of the area being driven and wait for the driver to push the deer to them. Overall, drive hunting is not as effective as other methods, as deer are highly skilled at slipping between the drivers. Additionally, all drivers must use extreme care not to shoot in the direction of the other drivers, often preventing them from taking shots themselves. One drive technique that does have some success is posting trailing hunters behind the drivers, who will often catch deer trying to slip backwards through the line of drivers.

Jump Shooting

A final basic deer hunting technique involves walking through an area with thick cover, such as a corn field, and shooting the deer as they jump up to run, usually with a shotgun. Because there is often little or no time to identify if the deer is a buck or doe, jump shooting is most effective in areas where it is legal to shoot either sex. Also because of safety issues, jump shooting should only be done on private land where there are no other hunters present.

Making the Kill

Three BucksYou’ve done your job, you put out the effort. You picked a good spot, used the right technique, and there is a deer in front of you. Now what?

First off, calm yourself down. In the heat of the hunt and the excitement of seeing an animal, it’s easy to get over excited or anxious. This can cause you to take shots that aren’t good shots, make lots of noise accidentally, and many other things that will stop you from getting the kill.

Second, get your weapon ready. If you are hunting with a rifle, you should at least have it loaded at this point. Now chamber a round, take off the safety, and look through your scope at the animal. If you’re using a bow, nock an arrow if you haven’t already, pull back the bow, and find the deer in your sights.

Once you’re ready to shoot, don’t right away. Take a second again to calm your heart down. If you are shaking at all, take the time to let it calm down. You want a good, clean kill shot, not an injured animal.

Now, aim for the vital areas. These are going to be primarily towards the front of the animal, where the heart and lungs are. If you are a very good shot, you can also aim for the head or neck areas. Just know that they are smaller targets and much easier to miss. If you shoot a deer in the chest with a powerful weapon, it will almost surely die quickly. The key is to hit it right in the vital
area. This will be right behind the front leg, in the middle of the body.

Try to avoid hitting the deer in the guts. This means the back half of the deer’s body. If you do, you run serious risk of soiling some of the meat when the contents of the guts are released into the animal’s body. It also won’t be a clean kill, with the animal suffering unnecessarily and oftentimes running a significant distance before dying.

Blood Trailing

Sometimes, the kill doesn’t happen quite like you’d like it to. You hit the deer, but instead of dropping dead, it sprints off. You watch it go, but it quickly disappears behind some trees or on the other side of a hill. You have no hope of catching up with it, so your only option of finding the animal is to blood trail it.

Blood trailing is exactly what it sounds like: following the trail of fresh blood a wounded animal leaves behind. Blood will tend to spray pretty profusely from a gunshot or arrow wound, so often times it’ll be easy to follow a trail of blood. That isn’t always the case however. Some blood trails can have huge gaps in between the spatters of blood, and be in small amounts and hard to see.

First, find the point the deer was shot at. You should see some telltale sign there, such as a blood pool. Then start walking in the direction the deer ran in. Typically they run in the direction they were facing when hit. Look for blood as you walk. If you haven’t seen any in awhile, you may be missing the trail, and need to turn back to head in a different direction.

Deer like to take the path of least resistance when wounded. A meadow is much more appealing than a thick forest. Running downhill is much easier than up. This isn’t necessarily a rule, but it is definitely something to consider if you are having a hard time finding the trail.

Another thing to do when blood trailing is to keep your sense of smell fully engaged. Often times you’ll smell the deer before you see it, especially if you hit it in a not ideal location like the guts. I once shot a deer in the lower stomach area, and had to blood trail it. I had lost the trail for a little bit, but then smelled something that was clearly not supposed to be there. Sure enough, I looked around a tree, and there were the poor animal’s guts in a nice pile where they had fallen out while he ran. From there, it was easy to track the rest of the way, and I quickly found the animal.

Blood trailing is not something you want to do often, but it is something you should always be prepared to do. Hopefully you are successful in making clean kills, but if worse comes to worst, be ready to spend some time finding that animal whose life you took; it is well worth the effort.

After the Kill

So you made your big kill. You were well prepared, had the perfect spot scouted out, and found your deer. Your weapon came through, the target practice was all worth it, and you made a clean kill, and found it without a problem. Now you have a dead deer lying at your feet. What next?

First off, if you packed a camera, take some pictures if you want. You’ll never get another chance to get a picture with that deer once you’ve started cutting it up. What you do next will depend on if you are going to drag out the entire deer or pack out the meat. Either way you need to field dress/gut the animal. If you are packing it out you will also butcher it on the spot.

Once your home, you will have quite the task ahead of you to process the meat, hide, and antlers into what you are going to use them for. Read these chapters thoroughly, and do any additionally needed research.

Field Dressing

The kill is often considered the most exciting part of deer hunting, but most people are not doing it for the fun. The truth is that many families rely on the meat to get them through the long winter months. This is why it is so important to learn the proper way to field dress a deer. One mistake could mean many pounds of lost meat.

After the deer is down, you want to make sure you are in an area that will allow you to field dress the deer comfortably. If you are not, drag the deer to flat area. For safety measures, hang something orange to a tree branch over the top of where you will be working. This will allow other hunters to see you.

The deer should be propped up on its back, which will allow you access to the chest and abdominal region. Using a sharp knife, you will start by cutting just below its sternum and all the way down to the genital region. Just be sure you are not cutting too deep; you just want the knife to go under the hide and its stomach muscles.

When you reach the genital area, you will need to cut around both sides. This will prevent you from cutting into the bladder and ruining the surrounding meat. For a buck, you will have to first cut the base of the penis and
testicles. For a doe, you will need to cut around the vaginal area and anus.

Before you do anything else, you will need to cut out the anus and tie off the intestines inside the deer. If you fail to tie them off, fecal matter will leak out and the meat will become tainted. With a doe, you will also need to cut and remove the reproductive system with the bladder.

By rolling the deer to its side, the entrails should simply slide out of the cavity and onto the ground. You will need to have your knife ready to cut any connective tissues that are still keeping them attached to the inside of the body.

The next step is to clear the chest cavity. Start by pinching or tying off the deer’s esophagus. You can then remove this along with the stomach. When this is done, cut the diaphragm away from the ribs and reach up to pull down as much of the esophagus and windpipe as possible. Cut this and remove it.

If you plan to save the heart and liver, you will need to remove these when you roll the deer back to its side to empty the contents of the chest cavity. These organs should be placed into a clean cloth or plastic bag after their removal.

After you have cleaned up, you are ready to haul your deer home to butcher. However, many people are often disappointed by the amount of meat they actually yield from their kill. On average, about 40% of a deer’s weight will turn out to be meat. In other words, if you have a 100 pound deer, you should expect to see about 40 pounds of meat.

Due to the fact that only about 40% of your deer’s weight will be meat, you need to be very careful when field dressing the deer. Busting open the intestines or bladder can ruin a lot of it, but you also need to be careful when you get home. Hanging the deer to let the blood drain off is important, but you have to be aware of the temperatures. A deer hanging in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit will quickly spoil your meat for consumption.

This was a quick overview of the process of field dressing a deer. If you want to watch a video, which I highly recommend you do before you attempt this, here are a couple of good ones:

There are plenty of resources online about this topic. If you need more information, do some searching around. This is one thing that you do not want to mess up on your hunt.

Dragging and Packing

Honing your hunting skills also includes knowing the proper deer packing process. An experienced hunter not only knows how to make the kill, but is skilled in packing out properly and transporting the deer as well.

Once you’ve field dressed the animal, you can either butcher it in the field, or drag out the entire animal. Most often, people will drag out the entire animal. This allows them to butcher the animal in a safe and clean environment.

A quality constructed hip harness will make for a great investment for dragging your kill from the field. When horses and cart mechanisms are impractical or unavailable, a sturdy hip harness is easier on the body and requires little equipment haul.

Some hunting enthusiasts enlist the help of a specially designed cart for the purpose of carcass transport. Many sporting goods stores provide a wide variety of models to choose. This process allows for easy transporting of an entire deer, saving cutting for a later time and location.

Butchering in the field and then packing out your deer is time intensive and requires a level of patience and skill but will save on hauling heavier weight. Tying a rope around the deer’s back legs and securing it to a tree is the first step. Make sure no part of the animal is touching the ground. Gut the deer starting from the belly and ending where the last rib is located. Be sure to cut through the hide continuing to the anus. Completely sever any skin still holding the anus in place and reach into the cavity. After removing the entrails slice away any remaining organs still connected to the carcass. Leave any bones and entrails for scavengers.

Skinning the deer starts with a cut at the top and continuing to the first joint for each leg. From this cut, slice through each leg returning to your initial cavity cut. While pulling on the hide delicately slice the membrane and continue the process until the only connection of the hide to the animal is around the neck area. Sever the head as well as each front leg from each top joint. Remove the feet and continue to remove the mid-section, rib meat, etc. until you have removed the prime choices of meat. Severing the spine will help to remove the rear legs. Always securely wrap your meat in industrial strength plastic bags and finish by securing them closed with high quality tape.

Acquiring excellent pack out skills will ensure optimum meat condition and makes the process much easier to execute properly. If you use a wheeled cart pull or hip harness, properly wrap your deer to ensure no damage to the hide. If you’re going to butcher it in the field, make sure that all the meat is wrapped well in plastic bags before putting it in your pack.

Meat Processing Basics

Now that you have your deer out of the field, it’s time to process the meat. You can pay someone else to do it for you, but I don’t recommend this. It is easy to do yourself, and then you know exactly what is happening to your meat.

Proper Aging of Venison

You do not want to begin butchering your deer until after the muscles have had a chance to finish the rigor mortis process, which is when all the muscles and tendons stiffen for about twenty four hours. Trying to butcher during this time will cause the muscles to toughen and the meat will not taste as good as it would if you had waited just another day.

Remember that aging meat is in no way controlled rot. To properly age meat, you need to hang it in a cool room, below 40 degrees Fahrenheit but above freezing, to prevent the growth of bacteria and allow the enzymes to do their work. As an animal matures, it develops collagen, which causes toughness. Hanging the meat allows the enzymes to break down the collagen, making the meat much more tender. It may be difficult to find a place to maintain a temperature according to the guidelines for a week or more, but if it is possible, that duration of time is the best to produce quality meet.

How to Cut Venison

When you are preparing to butcher a deer, you should always keep safety in mind. Research any diseases that might be prevalent in the areas you are hunting. Since it is impossible to know from looking at the animal if it is infected, always use caution around any spinal or brain fluids, and consider using gloves to prevent the spread of pathogens.

If there is no threat of chronic waste disease in your area, the first step will be to cut the carcass in half. If there is a threat, leave the ribs intact and attached to the spine, and just cut any meat away from them before you throw them away. You should then remove the hind legs by cutting carefully around the joint. Many people like to remove the loin next by cutting carefully along the spine, followed by removing the two front legs. The neck and meat near the leg joints, along with organ meat, can all be used for stews and similar cooking. To help make your meat tenderer, try to always cut against the grain. After you have cut up the animal, use quality butcher paper to wrap up the meat and store the remaining parts in the freezer. Always be sure to mark what it is with the date so you use the oldest meat first.

How to Grind Venison

Ground meat is an excellent way to store the meat and make fresh burgers and other ground meat dishes. It is recommended that you grind up the meat when it is as fresh as possible for ease and maximum taste.

Additionally, some find it easier to grind the meat when it is partially frozen. To prepare the meat this way, you do need to purchase a meat grinder, and they come in different sizes and strengths. Choose one that best suits how often you plan on grinding meat and the amount you are willing to spend. If it is going to be very infrequently, you can also consider speaking with a butcher to see if he can help grind the meat for a fee.

Venison is popular, tasty meat enjoyed by many. It is commonly acquired through hunting, leading many people to figure out the best way to handle the preparing of the meat. Hopefully this offered some guidance as to the preparation, butchering, and grinding of the meat so it can be stored for enjoyment.

What to do with the Hide

Once you’ve dealt with the meat, it’s time to do something with the hide. Many people simply throw them away, which makes sense for some since they aren’t worth much and don’t serve too many practical purposes. However, you can tan your deer hide and have a nice piece to remember your deer by and maybe use for some sort of project or decoration. Tanning a deer hide is the process used when seeking to preserve the skin of the deer. This process will vary depending on the type of hide you are tanning.

Dry Scrape Tanning

This process involves drying out the hide on a pre-built frame. The hair and grain are hand scraped with a sharp tool. This particular method may be difficult and time consuming, however, the process assists in thinning the hide as well. Although tanning a deer hide using this method is possible, thick hides such as buffalo and bear are preferred.

Wet Scrape Tanning

Wet Scrape tanning involves the wet hide being scraped with a dull tool versus a sharp one. The process requires faster scraping motion in order to have optimal brain penetration. This requires no pre-built frame and leaves few if any tool marks. The wet scraping method is preferred for thinner hides such as deer.

Bucking

Bucking involves a soaking process in a solution of alkaline. Once the hide has shown optimal swelling, you may start the wet scrape process. After rinsing the hide, it may be sufficiently dried. The bucking process allows for optimal brain tanning, if that is the rout you want to go. The alkaline mixture also sterilizes the hide while providing easier grain access. This process involves an extremely large quantity of water.

Pre-Smoking and Smoking

Pre-smoking starts by soaking the hide in water followed by a brain soaking. This process then involves slowly working the hide until optimally dried and placing it in a quality smoke house. Many who use this type of tanning consider it the perfect technique for producing a quality soft-textured hide.

Fur Tanning

Tanning a hide with the fur on is a long process and may require as much as eight to ten days. After removing any remaining flesh, a clean deer hide is then thoroughly soaked in a salt/alum/water mixture for up to ten days. Once the soaking process is complete, a thorough rinse is required and the hide is securely adhered to a clean, dry board with the skin facing the board side. After the skin has reached a nearly dry condition, the hide is rubbed with hide oil. After lightly moistening the hide, a follow-up rubbing process is required. This thoroughly softens the skin texture. It is important to apply this step to the skin side of the hide only. Once you have lightly sanded the skin with a fine grade sand paper, your hide is complete.

All of these processes require patience, knowledge, technique and skill. Enlisting someone who is trained in the process is helpful. Allowing an experienced tanner to supervise your initial tanning process will ensure no damage or mistakes are made to the skin. If you are unable to locate an experienced individual who will guide you through the process, it is highly recommended that you bring your hide to an experienced tannery for optimal results.

The Rack

Deer AntlersOnce you’ve dealt with the hide, you now get to work with the real trophy. Assuming you killed a buck, you’ll have a nice rack to mount on your wall. You have several different options for mounting the antlers, so do what you think will look best in your setting and will be easiest for you based on your experience/capabilities.

European Mount

This is the most traditional look. It involves cleaning the entire skull of the animal with the antlers still on, and then mounting it as one piece. Be forewarned, this process can get messy, and if you’re the kind of person that gets grossed out by brains, I would recommend a different option described below.

There are two ways to do this. The first is to bury the entire head in your backyard, and let the flesh decompose for at least several months. When you dig it up in the spring/summer, it should be relatively clean. There are drawbacks to this however, like the risk of the antlers being damaged while the head is buried.

The second is to go ahead and boil/remove all of the flesh from the head right away. Start by removing as much of the skin/flesh from the skull as you can with a knife. The more you get off now, the less it’ll stink later. After you’ve done that, you’re going to boil it in a large kettle with a low concentration of bleach water. DO THIS OUTSIDE. It smells horribly. Once you get your water to a boil, hang the head with a rope so that it is fully submerged in the water, but not touching the bottom. Let it boil for around an hour; then let it cool for at least 15 minutes. Scrape off any remaining flesh and brains. Much of the brains and the eyes should have fallen off during boiling. If not, use whatever tools necessary to get them out. After that, some people recommend a second round of bleach boiling, while others say using dry boric acid overnight is best. Do whatever you feel most comfortable with. Once it is completely clean and sanitized, it is ready to hang. You can easily put it on a plaque to add to the effect, or just hang it as is on a wall. If you are willing to put in the
work, a European mount will look fantastic.

Mounting Kits

Another great option for making a display out of your antlers is to use a mounting kit. This will allow you to skip the boiling process, and still have a professional looking display. These kits come with instructions to easily use. Here are a couple of examples:

Hunters Specialties Deer Antler Mounting Kit

Walnut Hollow Antler Mount Kit – Oak

Mountain Mike’s Skull Master

Other Options

If you don’t want to actually mount your antlers, there are plenty of options. There are an innumerable amount of crafts you can make with your antlers. I have an antler letter opener that I use every day. You can also make jewelry, chandeliers, candle holders, furniture, and virtually anything else you can think of. You are only limited by your imagination!

Conclusion

Well, almost 12,000 words later, that is a wrap. Hopefully you picked up a few useful bits of information from this guide, and you’ll be successful in your future hunts because of it. Be sure to contact us and let us know how your hunting season goes, we love to hear from our readers!

Venison Spanish Rice

  • March 1, 2016 /

This is a quick and easy, one-pot recipe that substitutes ground venison for ground beef. The tomatoes give it a Spanish take and depending on your preference of heat, you can spice it up a bit by adding your favorite hot peppers like chopped jalapenos or red chilies. You can also use brown rice instead of white, if you prefer a healthier blend of rice. The bacon adds a bit more flavor and leaving the grease in the pan helps cook the venison, which is lean and has no fat.

If you have any leftover rice, store in the refrigerator and heat up the next day, as it will absorb more of the flavors as it sits. This recipe works well with a side of cornbread.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb. of ground venison
  • 1 cup of onions chopped
  • 1 cup of bell peppers chopped
  • 6 bacon strips uncooked
  • 2 10-oz. cans of diced tomatoes and chilies
  • 1 tbs. garlic powder
  • 1 tbs. onion powder
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • 2 tbs. chili powder
  • 2 cups of rice uncooked
  • 5 cups of water
  • Nonstick cooking spray

Utensils

  • Dutch oven or large soup pot

Directions

  1. Spray a Dutch oven or large soup pot with nonstick cooking spray. Slice bacon into 1-inch pieces and fry in pot until done. Remove the cooked bacon pieces leaving the grease in pot.
  2. Add the ground venison into the pot with the bacon grease and cook until done and brown.
  3. Add water, diced tomatoes and chilies, chopped onions and bell peppers, garlic, onion and chili powders, rice and bacon pieces. Stir well to mix.
  4. Bring the mixture to a boil, cover with a lid and reduce heat to medium-low to simmer.
  5. After approximately 15-minutes, stir the venison rice mixture and taste. Add the desired amount of salt and pepper.
  6. Place the lid back onto the pot and continue simmering the rice mixture for another 15 to 20 minutes. It is done when the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender.

Recipe makes approximately six servings.

Tip

If you have a leftover cooked venison roast, you can substitute it for the ground venison. Make sure to shred the meat or chop it into small pieces before adding it to the rice mixture. You can skip the step for cooking the meat, if you use venison that is already cooked.

Venison Mushroom Hash

  • March 1, 2016 /

This recipe puts a new spin on old-fashion hamburger hash by substituting ground venison for the ground beef and adding mushrooms. Venison hash is a pure comfort food recipe, which is a one-dish meal and is so easy to pull together and make. It works well as a brunch item or used for dinner and will have everyone in the family coming back for more. To round out the meal, pair it with a side salad, your favorite vegetable and bread.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb. of ground venison
  • 2 tbs. vegetable oil
  • 2 tbs. butter
  • 1 cup of onions chopped
  • 1 cup of bell pepper chopped
  • 2 tsp. black pepper
  • 1 tbs. seasoning salt
  • 1 lb. of mushrooms washed and sliced
  • 1 tbs. garlic powder
  • 1 tbs. onion powder
  • 3 large potatoes cut into 1-inch cubes
  • Nonstick cooking spray

Utensils

  • Large skillet
  • Large bowl

Directions

  1. Spray a large skillet with nonstick cooking spray and add vegetable oil.
  2. Brown the ground venison until thoroughly cooked. Once done, remove meat from the skillet and place in a large bowl, allowing any remaining oil to remain in the pan.
  3. Add butter to the skillet and melt. Add cubed potatoes, seasonings and fry until almost done. Add another tablespoon of vegetable oil while cooking if more is required.
  4. Before potatoes get completely soft and done, add bell pepper, onions and mushrooms and continue cooking over medium-heat until potatoes are done and vegetable are just soft.
  5. Add cooked venison into the potato mixture, stirring well and heating through.

Recipe makes four to six servings.

Tips

  • Any type of mushrooms will work well in this recipe from portabella to button. If you don’t have fresh mushroom on hand, canned also work well just be sure to drain before using so you don’t add too much moisture to the hash.
  • If you have leftover cooked venison roast on hand, you can also use that by either shredding it or chopping it into 1-inch cubes. If using cooked meat, you can skip the first step of cooking the meat and add it after the potatoes and vegetable are cooked.

Crockpot BBQ Pulled and Smoky Venison

  • March 1, 2016 /

Do not think you have to go to a barbecue joint to get the full-flavor of pulled meat and don’t think that pork is the only meat that you can cook this way. Venison is leaner than pork and makes a tasty barbecue when slowly cooked in a crockpot with all the spices added to give it that smoky taste. Slow-cooking the lean meat makes it so tender it easily pulls apart with a fork. Depending on how quick you want the venison to cook, you can place the roast whole into the crockpot and cook for approximately eight-hours or cut the meat into chunks to reduce cooking time. This recipe works well used as your typical barbecue on a sandwich bun or served plain. Pair with baked beans, potato salad, coleslaw, and if served without a bun, a loaf of garlic bread helps finish this tasty meal.

Ingredients

  • 2 lb. venison roast (any cut will do)
  • 1 tbs. garlic powder
  • 1 tbs. onion powder
  • 1 tbs. liquid smoke
  • 2/3 cup of water
  • 1 16 oz. bottle of barbecue sauce

Utensils

  • Crockpot
  • Crockpot liners (optional)

Directions

  1. Place crockpot liner into crockpot, if using one. The liner only makes cleanup easier.
  2. Place the whole venison roast into the crockpot, or cut into chunks to reduce cooking time.
  3. Add garlic powder, onion powder, liquid smoke, water and barbecue sauce into the crockpot with the roast.
  4. Put the lid on the crockpot and turn on low. Allow the roast to cook for approximately eight hours. If you want to speed up cooking time, for the last two hours turn the crockpot on high.
  5. Test for tenderness of the roast by using a fork to shred the meat. If it pulls easily apart, it’s done. Mix the shredded venison well into the other ingredients.
  6. Recipe makes six to eight servings

Depending on your preferred taste, any flavored barbecue sauce works well. If you prefer a hotter barbecue, use a hot barbecue sauce or add 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper to the crockpot while the venison is cooking.

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